Monday, June 30, 2014

High Sierra Trail and Colby Pass - 2014

High Sierra Trail and Colby Pass - 2014
From June 21, 2014 through June 30, 2014

Starting: Crescent Meadows, Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park
Ending:   Marvin Pass Trailhead, Sierra National Forest

Andrea
We traveled 79.5 miles in 10 days this June. Our starting places was Crescent Meadow and followed the High Sierra Trail until we got to Junction Meadow. in the upper Kern Canyon area. There we left the HST and returned westward over Colby Pass, dropping into the Roaring River area, before exiting at the Marvin Pass Trailhead in Sierra National Forest, close to Big Meadow. It was a great and exciting trip, but one which if anything was more grueling, but at least as terrific as last year's John Muir Trail trip. Take a look at the bottom for the "best of" pictures.


There were six of us in our group:
  • Gary-that would be me. I planned out the trip and am the default guide.- just a fancy way of saying my name was on the wilderness permit
  • Sherri-my wife. She arranged all of the meals for four of us.
  • Andrea-our daughter. She works with REI and can carry more weight than anybody whom I know, particularly for her size.
  • Steven-our son. He is going to Fresno State and getting a degree in Computer Science
  • Ray-we met last year on the JMT and pretty much enjoyed each other's company from the get-go.
  • Rachel-Ray's daughter whom we also met on the JMT. Rachel and Andrea turned out to be friends from college.

    Rachel














Ray







Our journal is given by each day. Mileages came from my Foretex 401 GPS. In my world, all GPS' have a touch of inaccuracies as they need to figure out where they are. So I do filter the results, removing low travel segments, figuring they are static. So my GPS may record something different than others.


Sherri


One of the benefits of this kind of a walk is for those who are overweight like me is the ability to lose weight. On this trip, I was able to lose 8 pounds. Probably having to do with lugging a 55 pound pack over many hours and miles.








Gary

Abbreviations:
  • HST - High Sierra Trail
  • JMT - John Muir Trail
  • PCT - Pacific Crest Trail
  • NPS - National Park Service
  • NFS - National Forest Service
  • DDG - Drop Dead Gorgeous, usually when we are looking at a view
  • JDV - Jaw Dropping View


Trail Lesson:
These are thoughts and what we have experienced, usually for that day. They are what I have learned. This was started a couple of years ago.

Steven



Trail Slogan:
Something new which we came up with on this trip. Usually something which goes through our minds to our mouths.







Date
Campsite
Miles
Walked
Elevation
Gained
Max
Elevation

June 21, 2014

Nine Mile Creek 8.64 1,897' 7,683' Late start, but got in some good miles
June 22, 2014 Hamilton Lake 6.75 1,807' 8,185' Starting to get a feel for the high Sierra's. Deep canyons, water falls, high cliffs-wonderful
June 23, 2014

Big Arroyo 6.68 2,470' 10,736' First pass-Kaweah Gap. But Precipice Lake stole the show.
June 24, 2014

Morriane Lake 8.55 1,220' 10,621' Even prosaic days hold wonder
June 25, 2014

Kern Canyon 11.40 1,148' 9,292' Hot spring relaxation and the wonders of a deep canyon, plus unexpected beauty-what a day!
June 26, 2014

Kern-Kaweah River 7.02 2,824' 9,581' A tough day, but what sights!
June 27, 2014

Colby Pass 7.06 3,054' 12,023' Even a tougher day, but even better sights
June 28, 2014

Cloud Canyon 5.77 384' 10,486' Coming down out of the high Sierra's

June 29, 2014

Commanche Meadow 11.82 1,414' 8,302' Hot dry day, with some interesting refreshments

June 30, 2014
Marvin Pass Trail head 5.85 1,834' 9,275' Last day on the trail
Totals
79.5 18,052'


Our total walking was 79.5 miles. Total ascent was 18,052'. Our average day was 7.95 miles with an ascent of 1,805'. Of course behind that average our days ranged from 5.77 to 11.82 miles and 384' to 3,054'. But as I said last year, it is not the miles or the climb but the enjoyment that still remains with us. This is still true



References:
For those of you who might be interested in hiking the HST or going over Colby Pass, here are some references which you can consult:

Sherri, Steven, Andrea, Ray, Rachel, Gary on top of Colby Pass



Pictures:

Warming Campfire
Whaleback and Big Wet Meadow


Andrea
  
Andrea, Steven, Sherri,

Colby Lake

Peak above Colby Lake

Colby Lake from Colby Pass


Galliats Lake

Ray catch and release fishing

Rachel and Steven coming down set of switchbacks

Mt Kaweah from Sky Parlor Meadow

Moraine Lake

Andrea with the Big Arroyo behind her

Water from one of the Nine Lakes

Precipice Lake

Ray victorious

Hamilton Lake

Hamilton Creek








     
     

June 30, 2014 - Comanche Meadow to Marvin Pass Trail Head

Title: June 30, 2014 - Comanche Meadow to Marvin Pass Trail Head
Hike Info:
Type:  Backpacking
Destination: Marvin Pass Trail Head
Distance:  5.85 miles
Start Time:  7:28
End Time:   12:36
Travel Time: 5:07 (1.14 mph)
Moving Time: 3:20 (1.76 mph)
Elevation Rise: 1,834'
Maximum Elevation: 9,275'


Description:
Speed Team-the Lizards
I did not sleep well last night. Kept waking up and not sure why. May have been thoughts of getting off the trail. Or at least a nice hit shower and something solid to eat. I finally got up at 5:30 with Ray following shortly. We are splitting up into two groups. The speed team, the Lizards, who will go down an get the cars from the Marvin Pass Trailhead and Giant Forest. The Lizards consists of Andrea, Steven and Ray. The slower group, the Tortoises, or as I prefer, the Turtles, will follow and be picked up at Marvin Pass Trailhead.

After an oatmeal breakfast, the Tortoises start out, around 7:30 from Comanche Meadow. We have a 1500' elevation gain this morning. We see signs that the others have already past by this way-footprints and some dirt scratches. We plod along, fitting for tortoises, not too fast, taking many breaks. But we keep moving. 
Dry Trail

Field of Skunk cabbage
The best sights along here are the meadows. Many places the big-leafed skunk cabbage fill the damp ground.  But when we do not pass meadows, there are some tree giving us some shade. But there are many other places where the sun strikes us dead on. Even though it is morning, the sun's rays seem to wilt us when not in the shade. Maybe it is the dustiness of the trail or the dryness of the area, it makes me just want to get through this walk today.

Only a few vistas to the mountains far off. Even then, the view us obstructed by trees.

Trail sign
The top of the grade only brings relief from the ascent. But the reward is only a trip down to Rowell Meadow. At least, it is down, for the most part. When we get to the junction by the Meadow, we only see the green grass from a distance, but we do see the Lizards Team handy work. In case we had doubts about what way to go, they left us direction.

Tortoises



We are off to our final rise of the trip, Marvin Pass. Not really much of a pass. We go up 300' on a mostly level trail. At this point, the feeling is the last of our trip is calling us. We only take a picture to show we were here, then start our final descent to the trailhead. Right after the pass, I start sucking air instead of water out of my bladder-first time this trip. But I can make it down. In a half an hour, we pop out on the unpaved parking lot to wait for our ride. I had told Andrea I thought we would arrive at 12:30 or 1. I was right on with 12:30.

That would be the end or close to the end of most backpacking trips. But one of the things which the Lizard team had to do was to ferry the cars around. So the Tortoises were consigned to wait around in the heat under the shade of a big cedar tree. Every hour or so we would move as the shade moved. Around 2:30, Steven drove up in the Rav4. Pretty nice to have your own chauffeur. Even better when he is bringing gifts from Ray: ice cold water, ice cream bars and potato chips. I never knew that chips and water would taste this good after a hike. Sherri and I went through a whole bag in 15 minutes.

Ray had already left for Sacramento; Andrea decided that she could go straight to Fresno without the pain of a 45 minute drive up to Marvin Pass Trailhead. So Steven was left with driving us home.  We arrived around 4:30. Then we went into the showers, which felt sooo good. To top things off, we went to Casa Quintero's for dinner and things could not get better. I think we must have hit our beds around 9:30 for a good night sleep.

 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.
Casa Quintero Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls




Sunday, June 29, 2014

June 29, 2014 - Roaring River to Comanche Meadow

Avalanche Peak
Title: June 29, 2014 - Roaring River to Comanche Meadow

Hike Info:
Type:  Backpacking
Destination: Sugarloaf Meadow
Actual Destination: Comanche Meadow
Distance: 11.82 miles
Start Time:  8:24
End Time:   7:23pm
Travel Time: 10:59 (1.08 mph) 1
Moving Time: 5:46 (2.05 mph)
Elevation Rise: 1,414'
Elevation Descent: 2,076'
Maximum Elevation: 8,392'

 1This time includes two extended breaks. One at Ferguson Creek to enjoy its coolness; the other at Sugarloaf Meadow for dinner.



Description:
Roaring River a little below camp
Got up at 6 and wrote for a little while until everyone got up. Usual camp routine. We leave the campsite at 8:30. I guess this is really the start of our trip back. I have a feeling of trying to make time to a spot rather than enjoying the journey. Not saying that the hike is not enjoyable, but just there is an effort to make it to a place rather than enjoying the scenery. But to me, the scenery is not the A+ quality we have been seeing along the way. It is your normal Sierra scenery.
Andrea  observing handywork




Roaring River from bridge


It is a good thing we stopped where we did last night. We saw maybe one spot between there and Roaring River(Note: in looking at other sites, people make mention of many other campsites along Roaring River, but we did not see them.) The trail is pretty good and we make good time, arriving at the bridge crossing the Roaring River before 11. Like I said previously, there was not much in the way of jaw dropping beauty, just the ordinary Sierra scenes. At Roaring River Ranger Station, there is an outhouse with bear lockers. So we stop for a break. It is warm and I am getting lethargic. The ranger station is much like I remember it, along with the hitching post.

Sherri on top of ridge
Andrea on way up ridge
We decide our next stop will be on the other side of an upcoming unnamed ridge. Even the mile and a half walk along Roaring River is hard work. But when we start up the 400' climb up a ridge to go over into the Sugarloaf area, the heat is oppressive.  We are glad that Ray and Rachel have found Ferguson Creek. Rachel found a nice to lie in a pool in the creek, which we all take turns enjoying the the sensations to our bodies. Cleaned and cool-a twofer! Even the hot springs do not feel this luxurious. The cold water in contrast to the warm air, so invigorating.

Sugarloaf
But once we hit the trail again, our stride is better, but the clean feeling does not last long. Actually, the cool leaves us pretty quickly as well. After a short descent to Sugarloaf Creek, we cross over and now our ascent of the day really starts. We start up the Sugarloaf Valley. While the walking is easy, the heat continues to sap our energy. We finally get to Sugarloaf Meadow and decide to have dinner. Our energy level has hit bottom.


West and East Videttes

Running up Trail


Now it is time for decision. Are we too tired to continue on to Comanche Meadow: 1.5-2 miles with between 500 and 800' rise? We are tired, but nobody likes the idea to camp here while looking forward to a 2000' climb and eight miles of hiking tomorrow while trying to get Ray to Sacramento at a reasonable time. So we settle  on a plan. Andrea and Ray will race ahead to Comanche Meadow and Sherri and Rachel. Steven and I will come along and set up camp. Off we go with another hour plus hike. But the plan worked!

Ready for bed
We find a bear box and and a good campsite. Water is a bit of a problem, but a small creek is located. All are tired, and all get into bed by 9. But we are a in good position to get an early start tomorrow.


Trail Lesson:
Plans do come together, so have a plan.
Todays's Slogan:
Sleep. Eat. Walk. Enjoy
Snowball


 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang. Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers Tamale Freestyle Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls


Saturday, June 28, 2014

June 28, 2014 - Colby Lake to Roaring River

Title: June 28, 2014 - Colby Lake to Roaring River

Hike Info:
Type:  Backpacking
Trail: Roaring River
Destination:Roaring River-not ranger station
Distance:  5.77 miles
Start Time:  12:16
End Time:     5:49
Travel Time: 5:33 (1.04 mph)
Moving Time: 3:37 (1.60 mph)
Elevation Rise: 384'
Elevation Descent: 2,174'
Maximum Elevation: 10,486'



Description:
A slow day, as we decided last night. I think we all are feeling a bit tired and worn after Colby Pass. I get up at 7:30. Ray and I talk for awhile, just enjoying our down time. I wash up, so I only partly stink. Also a whole clothesline full of clothes are washed. Like I said, it has been a slow morning. By the time we leave camp, it is after 12.


Colby Lake
Looking into the faux Cloud Canyon




Lots of mosquitoes when we start. I finally beg for mercy and apply Deet. We quickly come our to a point above Cloud Canyon. What a gorgeous sight! We can see beyond Kings Canyon over into the Monarch area. Now. It is down the end of the Whaleback.http://gary-summer.blogspot.com/1970/01/places-ca-whaleback.html While it is a sharp downhill, even Sherri is comfortable with it-probably after yesterday, she would feel comfortable with anything not named Colby. After an hour we gave found the floor of Cloud a Canyon. We stop by the not so Roaring River for a break.
Rachel









Andrea, but not Cloud Canyon
Shorty's cabin should be right before us, on the other side of the river. But we do not see it. But the travel is pleasant, even though a bit slow. We are going down. But after while, some of the canyon features do not line up with the map. Aaaaagh! We are still going down the creek from Colby Lake, not Cloud Canyon! The elevation of 9560' confirms our location.





Gary and Steven
Andrea
Now we cross the Whaleback and start our descent into Cloud Canyon. Now we can look up Cloud Canyon towards the crest. It does speak to us of the  majesty of what we see. And then we find the real a Roaring River. Once again at this point, not roaring, but the start of a river.

We stop briefly to content plate a sign saying Junction Meadows 16 miles, Not A Maintained a Trail, Stock Not Advised.  Sherri feels a bit vindicated about the turmoil of the last couple of days. But the mosquito's drive us out of our resting spot. But not before we said we would have liked to stay here for a couple more hours, without those pesky flying creatures.

Whaleback from Big Wet Meadow
We now pass where Shorty's Cabin should be, but still do not see it. The walking along the canyon floor is so much easier than we experienced from the last two and a half days of walking. But by now the heat of the day has gotten too us, so there is also a bit of lethargy. But somehow beauty seems to bring us back a bit. This time it is a meadow by the unassuming name of Big Wet Meadow. While it is true there are mosquito's, we have seen worse. But the greenness of this Meadow with the background of mountains and canyon  is something to behold. It is what every mountain meadow should look like.


Walking through beauty


Big Wet Meadow

Fallen Tree
 We pass by Cement Table Meadow, which is not up to the level of its companion. By now we are looking for a camp spot for the night. In about 3/4 of a mile, we find a mostly flat place by the river. Even when Ray and I walk another ten minutes do not we find a campsite. So we stay at this unnamed spot-tomorrow we would walk almost all the way down to Roaring River Ranger Station before finding a place to camp. As Andrea would say this is not the best place we ever stayed. Lots of horse poop. Shortly after arriving, the group sees a bear. It evident is not interested in us as he ambles away to other haunts. Then as Steven was putting up his hammock, when the tree he attached it to fell. This was a 20' tree, but dead and evidently ready to fall.







Rachel and Andrea trade dinners. Ray starts a nice fire. Good evening conversation. Ray and I talk way past when others go to bed. Mostly about leading church groups. We finally turn in around 10. I take a little while to fall asleep. It has been a good trip.




Trail Lesson:
Don't conform facts to your plan; conform your plan to facts.

Gary and Andrea

 Breakfast Lunch Dinner Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang. Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers Beef Veggie Wrap Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls





Another creek crossing
Looking into Cloud Canyon

Hikers
Glacier Ridge