We all got up a bit early—around 6, even Sherri. Our goal is to get going by 8:00. I did not sleep well last night. Not because of being uncomfortable, but more from the anxiety of getting an early start. Sherri had said she would get up when I did this morning. I suspect that is the reason why I woke about a bit after midnight and the again at 4am. But even then, I slept for at least 8 hours.
We eat, get packed—the tent top is wet with our perspiration. Its amazing how much you sweat at night. And we leave at the miraculous time of a quarter past seven. I am in the lead setting the pace. I am hoping that we can keep a pace of a little more than two miles per hour. For the first hour we go down some rocky slopes. Sometimes the path is bare granite; sometimes its boulders on the path and then sometimes the trail builders have inlaid stones to make a nice even path. It is pretty good. We make slightly more than 2 mph. All along we are treated with some very good sights looking down the valley or across at the river.
Then we hit wooded area. The path is dirt and well marked. We make good time going pretty close to 3 mph. I think this is the fastest Sherri has done for a long period of time with a pack. She is doing pretty good. We see more flowers today than we have in the past five days. Of course we are at a lower altitude now than we have been since the first day. Also it is warmer than it has been all week.
We come to Red Creek (N37.67684 W119.49832). It is log walking time again. Not too bad. But we stop for the first lunch there for the Sherri recovery time after log walking experience. Then we go about a quarter mile to Clark Creek (N37.67960 W119.50138). David and Steven decide that they don’t want to get their feet wet, so they go across some logs. I follow Sherri’s lead and take off my shoes. The crossing is not bad. We get across it without incident.
We have met a couple people. So we now know we are getting close to coming out of the backcountry. The third hour we slow a bit, but are still traveling well for us. A little under 3 mph. We come to a trail junction (N37.68443 W119.52091)—going to Little Yosemite Valley or down to Illilouette Creek. Its down we go. This part is a bit of a difference than what we have been travelling through previously. Its dry, sandy and a bit exposed to the sun. Plus, this area was badly burnt in a fire over ten years ago.
Now maybe Sherri slowed down a little to play a game called pinecone soccer. Steven and David, with a few assists by yours truly, would kick a pinecone down the trail. Sometimes a score would be made by having the pinecone going through Sherri’s legs. What a wonderful game. Sometimes I thought Sherri did not quite appreciate it.
When we get to the second junction (N37.68815 W119.54561), there is a sign on the mileage markers. The sign warns us that Illilouette Creek is running full and can be dangerous. After coming 50 miles, crossing snow, cross logs, walking down creeks disguised as trails, do we let a little sign turn us back now? No! So on we go! After a couple hundred yards we drop to the creek (N37.68720 W119.54536). Where is the log? Where are the rocks to cross with? After looking up and down, we decide its time to take off our shoes. David goes wading in the water first. He takes along the rope. After a bit of a tenuous crossing—at least tenuous for him—he makes it across, to the very end of the rope. Steven goes across well. Then its Sherri’s turn. Not much problem there. She is cautious, but the important thing is she made it. I am the last, and I untie the rope end and tie it around my waist—not a good knot. Then it’s the journey across the creek. Rocks are slippery, water is cold, but I find some places where there is sand on the bottom. While running pretty swiftly and the water come mid-thigh in the deep places, it is not bad. Make it across with both mine and Sherri’s packs.
So it is time for a Cliff bar celebration. Now it is time for the final 2+ mile leg of our trip. This time, it is up about 900’ to David’s car. We start up this grade. David and Steven will go ahead to the car. They will then go back and pick up Sherri’s car. They start going in a hurry. But Sherri must be moving pretty good since we keep them in sight for awhile.
The scenery is nothing but burnt forests. But even here in the destruction, there is an eerie sense of wonderment. As Sherri and I huff and puff up to the top of the 600’ ridge, we are glad for a brief reprieve from the climb and the scenery. The fire had stopped at the top. We now descend into Mono Creek (N37.67704 W119.56795). But as Sherri notes, every step down is a step back up again.
We come to the last creek crossing. But this one is even relatively easy, even for Sherri. There are four logs laid across the creek, we can just walk right across. For a short ways it is pretty level. Then we start our final upward trek. I have to say, the trail makers never must have known about grades or switchbacks. They could have lengthened the trail or created switchbacks. Instead, they took a shorter, pretty steep incline. This left me thinking, Sherri, when will be stopping to make one of your famous every 100’ breaks. Finally she stops and I can breath.
We make it to the top (N37.67153 W119.58496) around 2:30pm. David and Steven already have the car and have busted out the JoeJoe’s, think Oreo’s. We all enjoy a time of celebration of out successful trip. We drive down Glacier Point Road until it T’s. From here, David leaves us and heads over Tioga Pass.
We head down to Oakhusrt and Todd’s Cookhouse. Oh heaven it is for hungry backpackers. We order and enjoy real food for the first time in close to a week. After a suitable eats, its time to make our way back to Fresno. It is good to be back at home.
Now for the brutal stats. My pack weighed about the same as when I started. This is sort of phenomenal since I had dinner. But I suppose adding Steven’s food canister after his pack broken. Then this morning taking some of Sherri’s pack to get some speed, I guess I should be lucky I was able to come out even. My eight you might ask? Well, on initially the scale said I was down 10 pounds, but I think most of it was water loss. By Monday morning I had lost a pound. But I ate well and enjoyed things.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
June 18, 2009 – Givens Lake to Illilouette Creek, (8.6 miles GPS)
Got up 6:15. Good quiet time with Psalm 8 and Invisible, Immortal, Only Wise God. Its beautiful morning with on side of the ridge you look down into Buck Camp and then on the east wide its gazing onto the back of the Sierras. The other side you see Given Lake (N37.58210 W119.46686)—not the best lake, but an attractive lake.
I thought David was up. But also Steven had gotten up and climbed up onto the ridge, over-looking the lake to the north. Looks like he probably got 300 to 400’ above the lake. When he came back, he was covered with sweat. But content looking.
We eat, get packed and leave around 8:40.
The trail out of Givens Lake (N37.58210 W119.46686) is an unofficial trail. Some times we are on the trail, other times we go along a sort of a trail to discover it is not. We come across a real nice meadow where I took several pictures.
We hit the main trail (N37.58069 W119.45590), and start our trip back to the car. Next couple of miles we go up over a ridge, then descend a forested area until we reach a trail junction. On the top of the ridge, David went to a knoll (N37.58486 W119.44671). He caught up with us just before the junctionHe was able to see a 360 degree view from the knoll.
We had lunch at the junction(N37.59442 W119.44059). and started a 600’ climb up to Merced Pass (N37.61633 W119.44293). About a half of a mile later, we saw the ranger from Wawona Station, Patrick Roe. We exchanged reports of snow and trail conditions. Then it is off up the trail. Snow covered a lot of the trail, but not enough to make it hard to pick up the trail after each snow patch. Steven and David went to the top. Sherri and I made it to the top around 1:30. Passed a very nice meadow. We had a Cliff bar, then left the top—lots of fly’s up there. Unfortunately/fortunately there are lots trees, so the views are limited. The top is sort of rounded.
There is lots of snow on the way down. I think Sherri is starting to get the hang of this snow walking. Of course, she is not sliding down the slopes like some of us. The snow does make traveling slower. We do find one place where there is a rock outcropping where we can get a real nice view down Illilouette Creek drainage.
Around the 8,800’ mark we escape the snow. Then comes the first of our creek crossings for the afternoon. The creek (N37.62619 W119.44386)comes out of Upper Merced Pass Lake and was going down the hill pretty good. Sherri waded across in her croc’s. The rest of us went across on logs.
Then the first crossing of Illilouette Creek (N37.63163 W119.44988) takes place. I got Sherri on a pretty big log. She crossed between David and myself—safely I might add, but a bit tense. We sort of looked like a polka line dancer going across. After recovering from this traumatic crossing, we continue out way down the trail.
We had meant to stay at Lower Merced Pass Lake (N37.62608 W119.44914) tonight. But we zoomed past it without stopping, seeing, or at least on my part, knowing that it was there. (In retrospect, looking at the map, we were about 200’ away, but it was hidden behind a ridge.) This is just as well as every step which we make further along the trail today means a shorter trek tomorrow. That trail will be putting in a few miles—at least for us.
We get to the second crossing of Illilouette Creek (N37.63584 W119.45811). There is not a suitable log in sight and Sherri probably would not be happy with us anyway if there was. The creek was running strong and there was no good places to rock hop across. So off comes all of our shoes and on comes the sandals and crocs. Water is cold and fast. Fortunately it is not deep. I slip a couple of times across, but not bad enough to fall. Sherri makes it across last.
After drying off, we head on the trail, but looking for a campsite. David found one (N37.63724 W119.45852) just a hundred yards down the trail. Looks pretty good. I had gone to examine an area up the trail, but no real luck, except to find some magnificent falls. We settle down and set up camp. Dinner and rest. There are lots of mosquito’s and fly’s. These are pests which so far we have had only at a minimum. Probably a blessing from the cold. No fire tonight, but we did go out for a couple of walks.
We walked out to the creek. Then sort of headed up, which is easier said than done. Lots of fallen logs and marshy stuff. So we maneuver around. The objective is the falls I had seen earlier. As we get closer, they are magnificent. Not high—maybe 30’ high, but just the number, width and whiteness. There are at least three creeks coming down at this place. Each one having a great deal of white water coming down. Just really a wonderful sight. Hopefully pictures come out—even though I suspect that they will not do justice. We can only see the falls partially because of the trees. Steven and David go up higher above the falls. David reports the scene up there is just as wondrous. I go up a little ways with him and then we return back to camp.
Then David asks if I want to see a little discovery he and Steven made. David then took me down the creek a little ways. The creek enters a 70 yard chute where the water rushed through this V. I do not know if it is the evening sun and shadows or just the effect of seeing this after the falls above, but this area is just wonderful. One could get lost here.
Shortly after, even before it gets dark, we go to bed. Its early and warmer. For awhile there we laid on top of the sleeping bags. A bit of a difference from the cool to cold evenings earlier in the week.
I thought David was up. But also Steven had gotten up and climbed up onto the ridge, over-looking the lake to the north. Looks like he probably got 300 to 400’ above the lake. When he came back, he was covered with sweat. But content looking.
We eat, get packed and leave around 8:40.
The trail out of Givens Lake (N37.58210 W119.46686) is an unofficial trail. Some times we are on the trail, other times we go along a sort of a trail to discover it is not. We come across a real nice meadow where I took several pictures.
We hit the main trail (N37.58069 W119.45590), and start our trip back to the car. Next couple of miles we go up over a ridge, then descend a forested area until we reach a trail junction. On the top of the ridge, David went to a knoll (N37.58486 W119.44671). He caught up with us just before the junctionHe was able to see a 360 degree view from the knoll.
We had lunch at the junction(N37.59442 W119.44059). and started a 600’ climb up to Merced Pass (N37.61633 W119.44293). About a half of a mile later, we saw the ranger from Wawona Station, Patrick Roe. We exchanged reports of snow and trail conditions. Then it is off up the trail. Snow covered a lot of the trail, but not enough to make it hard to pick up the trail after each snow patch. Steven and David went to the top. Sherri and I made it to the top around 1:30. Passed a very nice meadow. We had a Cliff bar, then left the top—lots of fly’s up there. Unfortunately/fortunately there are lots trees, so the views are limited. The top is sort of rounded.
There is lots of snow on the way down. I think Sherri is starting to get the hang of this snow walking. Of course, she is not sliding down the slopes like some of us. The snow does make traveling slower. We do find one place where there is a rock outcropping where we can get a real nice view down Illilouette Creek drainage.
Around the 8,800’ mark we escape the snow. Then comes the first of our creek crossings for the afternoon. The creek (N37.62619 W119.44386)comes out of Upper Merced Pass Lake and was going down the hill pretty good. Sherri waded across in her croc’s. The rest of us went across on logs.
Then the first crossing of Illilouette Creek (N37.63163 W119.44988) takes place. I got Sherri on a pretty big log. She crossed between David and myself—safely I might add, but a bit tense. We sort of looked like a polka line dancer going across. After recovering from this traumatic crossing, we continue out way down the trail.
We had meant to stay at Lower Merced Pass Lake (N37.62608 W119.44914) tonight. But we zoomed past it without stopping, seeing, or at least on my part, knowing that it was there. (In retrospect, looking at the map, we were about 200’ away, but it was hidden behind a ridge.) This is just as well as every step which we make further along the trail today means a shorter trek tomorrow. That trail will be putting in a few miles—at least for us.
We get to the second crossing of Illilouette Creek (N37.63584 W119.45811). There is not a suitable log in sight and Sherri probably would not be happy with us anyway if there was. The creek was running strong and there was no good places to rock hop across. So off comes all of our shoes and on comes the sandals and crocs. Water is cold and fast. Fortunately it is not deep. I slip a couple of times across, but not bad enough to fall. Sherri makes it across last.
After drying off, we head on the trail, but looking for a campsite. David found one (N37.63724 W119.45852) just a hundred yards down the trail. Looks pretty good. I had gone to examine an area up the trail, but no real luck, except to find some magnificent falls. We settle down and set up camp. Dinner and rest. There are lots of mosquito’s and fly’s. These are pests which so far we have had only at a minimum. Probably a blessing from the cold. No fire tonight, but we did go out for a couple of walks.
We walked out to the creek. Then sort of headed up, which is easier said than done. Lots of fallen logs and marshy stuff. So we maneuver around. The objective is the falls I had seen earlier. As we get closer, they are magnificent. Not high—maybe 30’ high, but just the number, width and whiteness. There are at least three creeks coming down at this place. Each one having a great deal of white water coming down. Just really a wonderful sight. Hopefully pictures come out—even though I suspect that they will not do justice. We can only see the falls partially because of the trees. Steven and David go up higher above the falls. David reports the scene up there is just as wondrous. I go up a little ways with him and then we return back to camp.
Then David asks if I want to see a little discovery he and Steven made. David then took me down the creek a little ways. The creek enters a 70 yard chute where the water rushed through this V. I do not know if it is the evening sun and shadows or just the effect of seeing this after the falls above, but this area is just wonderful. One could get lost here.
Shortly after, even before it gets dark, we go to bed. Its early and warmer. For awhile there we laid on top of the sleeping bags. A bit of a difference from the cool to cold evenings earlier in the week.
June 17, 2009 –Royal Arches Lake to Givens Lake, (6.8 miles GPS)
Woke up at 6:00, but laid in bed until 6:50. Sort of a lazy morning. David is already up. A few clouds, but nearly blue. Sun comes up over the arches above the lake. Nice. We have marmots around here. Looks like we will be leaving around 9:30.
We descend through patchy snow to the trail junction (N37.56789 W119.50693). Even in this area, the trail is underwater. But that quickly disappears as we go on a 500’ climb. Steep—these trail makers should have learned how to make switch backs. It was straight up the side of the ridge until we met the saddle. Was not hot, but in a month, this trail definitely would be an early morning trail or it being hot and dusty. We should have contoured around from Royal Arches Lake.
When Sherri and I get to the top (N37.56791 W119.50023), David and Steven are reclining against a couple of rocks, acting like a couple of content hobbits. I did ask if they had any Longbottom Leaf. They did have Nutella and Peanut Butter. Or more accurately, I brought it up with me.
Given that we would be descending steeply into Buck Camp (N37.56303 W119.48962) next via the trail, then do a 1,000’ ascent, we decide to go cross-country and contour around to Givens Lake. The first part was on a steep dirt grade, which we cut across. Nothing too bad. Then we crossed a small boulder field and head for a small saddle (N37.57503 W119.49075), which would give us entrance into the Given Creek drainage. On the way, we got a view of what I believe was Chain Lakes. We dropped down to a shelf at the 8,900’ level instead of traversing across large boulders with full backpacks. This turned out to be a good decision.
We hit some snow on the north side of the ridge, but it largely disappeared as we went lower and hit more sunlight.
We followed the base of a large boulder field into a forested area, crossing many creeks. We stopped for Cliff bar break by one of the creeks. Steven filled up our water supply there.
A word about the guiding. David is guiding us, trying to keep us from dropping down too far or rising up to aggressively. With all contour hiking, it is a challenge to find an acceptable path. David and Steven were up ahead about 20 yards with Sherri and I following. We basically kept level while going around the Given Creek basin.
As we got to the end of the basin, we came across a pretty steep, rocky place. Sherri was not too happy about this situation. David and Steven came to a cliff so we were forced to descend about 100’ down to easier walking. We crossed the lower side of the basin. This was very pleasant as we walked through a forest of small trees—developing trees, not dwarfs or anything like that.
But then we start walking up the ridge separating the Given’s Creek area from the Given’s Lake. This was about a 200’ elevation rise, not bad. Just towards the end of the day, it was a bit tiring. But we top the ridge (N37.58862 W119.46948)—as far as ridge tops are concerned, not as scenic as you would hope. But you know, anytime you clear a ridge, it is a good feeling.
We dip down to go towards Given’s. I come across a mud hole, But fortunately, or unfortunately Given’s Lake is beyond this. As we go towards the lake, Sherri and I come across the bone remains of what looks like a deer. No meat only bones.
We caught up with Steven and David above Given’s Lake. After eyeballing the shoreline and not finding anything obvious, we decide to split and go around the lake separately— Sherri and I to the north; Steven and David to the south. There was nothing too much on the north side of the lake—there looked like some campsites below a ridge, about an eight of a mile away. But David and Steven struck gold. Directly east of the lake, there was a good campsite (N37.58210 W119.46686) on the ridge so you could see the lake and look to the south and east and see the splendor of the area.
The area was nice and protected—even though the sky had cleared up nicely. The tents were away from the eating area. And the dinner was, in my humble opinion, the best of the entire trip. It was a beef-veggie roll with salsa and a tortilla. I went back for seconds, and then a third. Felt soooo good.
We played cribbage and Mille Bourne. Then for the first time this trip we got an alpine glow sunset. While not top notch, an alpine glow is always something which you quiet for and wonder. When the mountains around you turn yellow, orange, pink and red, you gaze and draw inspiration from. Shortly afterwards, we went to bed.
We descend through patchy snow to the trail junction (N37.56789 W119.50693). Even in this area, the trail is underwater. But that quickly disappears as we go on a 500’ climb. Steep—these trail makers should have learned how to make switch backs. It was straight up the side of the ridge until we met the saddle. Was not hot, but in a month, this trail definitely would be an early morning trail or it being hot and dusty. We should have contoured around from Royal Arches Lake.
When Sherri and I get to the top (N37.56791 W119.50023), David and Steven are reclining against a couple of rocks, acting like a couple of content hobbits. I did ask if they had any Longbottom Leaf. They did have Nutella and Peanut Butter. Or more accurately, I brought it up with me.
Given that we would be descending steeply into Buck Camp (N37.56303 W119.48962) next via the trail, then do a 1,000’ ascent, we decide to go cross-country and contour around to Givens Lake. The first part was on a steep dirt grade, which we cut across. Nothing too bad. Then we crossed a small boulder field and head for a small saddle (N37.57503 W119.49075), which would give us entrance into the Given Creek drainage. On the way, we got a view of what I believe was Chain Lakes. We dropped down to a shelf at the 8,900’ level instead of traversing across large boulders with full backpacks. This turned out to be a good decision.
We hit some snow on the north side of the ridge, but it largely disappeared as we went lower and hit more sunlight.
We followed the base of a large boulder field into a forested area, crossing many creeks. We stopped for Cliff bar break by one of the creeks. Steven filled up our water supply there.
A word about the guiding. David is guiding us, trying to keep us from dropping down too far or rising up to aggressively. With all contour hiking, it is a challenge to find an acceptable path. David and Steven were up ahead about 20 yards with Sherri and I following. We basically kept level while going around the Given Creek basin.
As we got to the end of the basin, we came across a pretty steep, rocky place. Sherri was not too happy about this situation. David and Steven came to a cliff so we were forced to descend about 100’ down to easier walking. We crossed the lower side of the basin. This was very pleasant as we walked through a forest of small trees—developing trees, not dwarfs or anything like that.
But then we start walking up the ridge separating the Given’s Creek area from the Given’s Lake. This was about a 200’ elevation rise, not bad. Just towards the end of the day, it was a bit tiring. But we top the ridge (N37.58862 W119.46948)—as far as ridge tops are concerned, not as scenic as you would hope. But you know, anytime you clear a ridge, it is a good feeling.
We dip down to go towards Given’s. I come across a mud hole, But fortunately, or unfortunately Given’s Lake is beyond this. As we go towards the lake, Sherri and I come across the bone remains of what looks like a deer. No meat only bones.
We caught up with Steven and David above Given’s Lake. After eyeballing the shoreline and not finding anything obvious, we decide to split and go around the lake separately— Sherri and I to the north; Steven and David to the south. There was nothing too much on the north side of the lake—there looked like some campsites below a ridge, about an eight of a mile away. But David and Steven struck gold. Directly east of the lake, there was a good campsite (N37.58210 W119.46686) on the ridge so you could see the lake and look to the south and east and see the splendor of the area.
The area was nice and protected—even though the sky had cleared up nicely. The tents were away from the eating area. And the dinner was, in my humble opinion, the best of the entire trip. It was a beef-veggie roll with salsa and a tortilla. I went back for seconds, and then a third. Felt soooo good.
We played cribbage and Mille Bourne. Then for the first time this trip we got an alpine glow sunset. While not top notch, an alpine glow is always something which you quiet for and wonder. When the mountains around you turn yellow, orange, pink and red, you gaze and draw inspiration from. Shortly afterwards, we went to bed.
Monday, June 22, 2009
June 16, 2009 –Lower Chilnualna Lake to Royal Arches Lake, (7.4 miles GPS)
I got up earlier than I thought it was—6:25. Cold last night, in the 30’s. Had my quiet time.
Usual breakfast. Leisurely start. It is a clear, beautiful morning. It is about 9:15 before we got started.
A word about the weather, There has been a lot of overcast during our days of hiking. But except for a brief hail and sprinkle the first day, we have been dry, but cold. We have been fortunate.
The first part of the day is a climb up to the junction (N37.60378 W119.52220). Its about two miles and 600’. We do it in 2 hours. What a view! Saw the backside of Half Dome, Clark, Starr King, and many others. Nice place for lunch. But it started to get cold again.
Buena Vista Lake (N37.60002 W119.51752) is an “Oh Wow” lake. Maybe it is three days hiking; it may be it’s the 9,077’ elevation; or the cliff side of Buena Vista Peak, but this is one fine lake. Right now snow is very much part of its show. We just gawk as we pass by. Stopping only to take pictures.
On up to the top of the saddle (N37.59977 W119.50974). Its another ¾ mile and 300’ climb up to 9,350’. Towards the top, snow covers some of the trail. Steven and David come down and take our packs. We were just about at the top when they came to us. But it was nice gesture for them.
Because of the snow, they went a non-trail route—designated the Dead Chipmunk Trail. Some bones were found along the way. I went off and took a few shots of Buena Vista Lake.
Coming down the south face of the saddle, there was lots of snow until about the 9,000’ level. We were able to follow the trail from a distance or crossing it with snow on the trail. We did pretty well going down, that is until a large patch of snow hid a left turn made by the trail. It crossed the creek. But we kept looking on the west side of the creek. When we went low enough, we realized where the trail was. So across the creek we went, and found the trail pretty quickly.
While we were coming down, it started raining for about an hour. Can’t say we were soaked, but it chilled us with a cold rain. There was a couple sounds of thunder—a ways away.
We came into Royal Arches Lake (N37.57809 W119.50439) as the clouds were descending. Got even colder. David got his tarp out and we pulled the tents under it—of course at this point, it stopped raining.
Dinner was beef stroganoff. Pretty tasty. We are about half way through our fuel. We will see how this works out.
David and Steven start a fire. It felt really good. Perfect would be hot chocolate and cheesecake. Clouds are starting to rise.
We have company! Two people came in. Sort of unsociable folks. They even buried their fish guts close to our camp.
The fire is dying. Its getting cold, and still cloudy, but breaking up. Bed time is around 8:30.
Usual breakfast. Leisurely start. It is a clear, beautiful morning. It is about 9:15 before we got started.
A word about the weather, There has been a lot of overcast during our days of hiking. But except for a brief hail and sprinkle the first day, we have been dry, but cold. We have been fortunate.
The first part of the day is a climb up to the junction (N37.60378 W119.52220). Its about two miles and 600’. We do it in 2 hours. What a view! Saw the backside of Half Dome, Clark, Starr King, and many others. Nice place for lunch. But it started to get cold again.
Buena Vista Lake (N37.60002 W119.51752) is an “Oh Wow” lake. Maybe it is three days hiking; it may be it’s the 9,077’ elevation; or the cliff side of Buena Vista Peak, but this is one fine lake. Right now snow is very much part of its show. We just gawk as we pass by. Stopping only to take pictures.
On up to the top of the saddle (N37.59977 W119.50974). Its another ¾ mile and 300’ climb up to 9,350’. Towards the top, snow covers some of the trail. Steven and David come down and take our packs. We were just about at the top when they came to us. But it was nice gesture for them.
Because of the snow, they went a non-trail route—designated the Dead Chipmunk Trail. Some bones were found along the way. I went off and took a few shots of Buena Vista Lake.
Coming down the south face of the saddle, there was lots of snow until about the 9,000’ level. We were able to follow the trail from a distance or crossing it with snow on the trail. We did pretty well going down, that is until a large patch of snow hid a left turn made by the trail. It crossed the creek. But we kept looking on the west side of the creek. When we went low enough, we realized where the trail was. So across the creek we went, and found the trail pretty quickly.
While we were coming down, it started raining for about an hour. Can’t say we were soaked, but it chilled us with a cold rain. There was a couple sounds of thunder—a ways away.
We came into Royal Arches Lake (N37.57809 W119.50439) as the clouds were descending. Got even colder. David got his tarp out and we pulled the tents under it—of course at this point, it stopped raining.
Dinner was beef stroganoff. Pretty tasty. We are about half way through our fuel. We will see how this works out.
David and Steven start a fire. It felt really good. Perfect would be hot chocolate and cheesecake. Clouds are starting to rise.
We have company! Two people came in. Sort of unsociable folks. They even buried their fish guts close to our camp.
The fire is dying. Its getting cold, and still cloudy, but breaking up. Bed time is around 8:30.
June 15, 2009 – Turner Meadow to Lower Chilnualna Lake, (8 miles GPS)
Got up just a tad before 7. Sun is already coming through and just about has reached our camp. David and Steven got up shortly afterwards. Breakfast is oatmeal, tang, and tea. This will be the standard breakfast throughout the trip. Pretty basic, but warm and filling.
Tents, tarps, and sleeping bags all are wet. There is a lot of moisture in the air and on the ground. But it did not rain last night. Drying takes a couple of hours. Played a game of cribbage. Lost something terrible.
David and Steven put a phase II repair on Steven’s pack. David found part of an aluminum walking pole. He used it as some additional bracing for the frame—more duct tape and string. But even with this additional bracing, we are still reducing his pack weight—I am taking the lunch canister; David the tent.
We set off at 9:45. We see a flock of deer in Turner Meadow, across the trail from where we camped. Shortly after we started out. The trail is mostly downhill.
We see and talk with a family we saw last night walking through. So far the only humans since we left the Ostrander trail.
Lunch break (N37.58608 W119.58651) is around 11:20, after 1 ½ miles. Its peanut butter, nutella, crackers, bagels and more. We are off again at 11:45.
After the trail junction (N37.58451 W119.58468), we start an easy to moderate climb. With the additional weight, I can feel the climb more than yesterday. Later on, we get steep. Scenery while not spectacular is good. Trail is less mushy. Right before we cross, Chilnualna Creek (N37.59151 W119.56695), we cross one of the many rivulets flowing across the trail.
Steven stops and tells me to look left—I had been scanning for a good place to cross the creek. There are two startled bears, golden in color. The first bear immediately senses us and runs away. The other bear still has his head down eating vegetation, then senses that his partner had run off. He starts running, without looking up, directly at me. About twenty feet away, he stops, looks up, and realizes the mistake. He veers to his right and runs up the hill out of site. So that is three bear, eight deer and four people on this trip, already.
After cross the creek, we take a short break. Its 12:45. David had found a small waterfall so we trudge over to it. Then we start our uphill for the next 2 ½ hours. The grade is not bad. Its just the pack is heavy. We get into Lower Chilnualna Lake (N37.59342 W119.54121).
We rest for a little while. Then David and I set off to Upper Chilnualna Lake (N37.59918 W119.53659) to see if it is a better lake (yes) and if the camping sites are better (we did not find any sites). The Upper Lake is a bit bigger and deeper and the backdrop more mountainish. But we did not find any camp sites. So back we came and circled the lower lake. We found a few places with fire rings. One is wide open and on the trail (N37.59437 W119.54162). We see how that is. If a little wind should blow, we are ok. But much more than that, it could be cold and miserable. By the way, the lake is ok right now, but it is shallow. Probably will be dry by August.
Dinner’s concoction was cabbage wraps with beef and noodle filling. Probably a little more would have been good. Finished by about 6:30. Nice fire to take some bite off the cool evening. We played a hand of cribbage—Steven and I won. Yeah! Onward to Mille Bourne—we lost.
Its getting cold and its time for bed. About 8:30.
Tents, tarps, and sleeping bags all are wet. There is a lot of moisture in the air and on the ground. But it did not rain last night. Drying takes a couple of hours. Played a game of cribbage. Lost something terrible.
David and Steven put a phase II repair on Steven’s pack. David found part of an aluminum walking pole. He used it as some additional bracing for the frame—more duct tape and string. But even with this additional bracing, we are still reducing his pack weight—I am taking the lunch canister; David the tent.
We set off at 9:45. We see a flock of deer in Turner Meadow, across the trail from where we camped. Shortly after we started out. The trail is mostly downhill.
We see and talk with a family we saw last night walking through. So far the only humans since we left the Ostrander trail.
Lunch break (N37.58608 W119.58651) is around 11:20, after 1 ½ miles. Its peanut butter, nutella, crackers, bagels and more. We are off again at 11:45.
After the trail junction (N37.58451 W119.58468), we start an easy to moderate climb. With the additional weight, I can feel the climb more than yesterday. Later on, we get steep. Scenery while not spectacular is good. Trail is less mushy. Right before we cross, Chilnualna Creek (N37.59151 W119.56695), we cross one of the many rivulets flowing across the trail.
Steven stops and tells me to look left—I had been scanning for a good place to cross the creek. There are two startled bears, golden in color. The first bear immediately senses us and runs away. The other bear still has his head down eating vegetation, then senses that his partner had run off. He starts running, without looking up, directly at me. About twenty feet away, he stops, looks up, and realizes the mistake. He veers to his right and runs up the hill out of site. So that is three bear, eight deer and four people on this trip, already.
After cross the creek, we take a short break. Its 12:45. David had found a small waterfall so we trudge over to it. Then we start our uphill for the next 2 ½ hours. The grade is not bad. Its just the pack is heavy. We get into Lower Chilnualna Lake (N37.59342 W119.54121).
We rest for a little while. Then David and I set off to Upper Chilnualna Lake (N37.59918 W119.53659) to see if it is a better lake (yes) and if the camping sites are better (we did not find any sites). The Upper Lake is a bit bigger and deeper and the backdrop more mountainish. But we did not find any camp sites. So back we came and circled the lower lake. We found a few places with fire rings. One is wide open and on the trail (N37.59437 W119.54162). We see how that is. If a little wind should blow, we are ok. But much more than that, it could be cold and miserable. By the way, the lake is ok right now, but it is shallow. Probably will be dry by August.
Dinner’s concoction was cabbage wraps with beef and noodle filling. Probably a little more would have been good. Finished by about 6:30. Nice fire to take some bite off the cool evening. We played a hand of cribbage—Steven and I won. Yeah! Onward to Mille Bourne—we lost.
Its getting cold and its time for bed. About 8:30.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
June 14, 2009 – Ostrander Lake Trailhead to Turner Meadow, (9 miles GPS)
Got up around 6:40, which is pretty good since I did not go to bed until 11:30. We had stayed up to finish packing and to clean up. Caution—Gary’s Gripe coming up: A lot of time we leave a mess when we go out backpacking. Thought that it was a good thing to try to clean up. Lets see if it helps when we come home. Gripe mode off. I was surprised that I woke up when I did.
Sherri’s pack weighs in at 25-28 pounds, while Steven’s David’s and mine are between 40 and 45 pounds. My starting weight is a little above 253 pounds—goal is under 250.
We got all packed and ready by 8:00 and went out to eat the Fresno Breakfast House. I had the meat lovers omelets; Sherri the Double Dipped French Toast; Steven and David had Toriso Orozelo (sic). By the comments, all are satisified. We left there around 9 and the bank at 9:30. Got to Wawona Ranger Station for a backcountry permit at 10:30. The ranger who issued the permit, Patrick Roe, we would eventually met Thursday.
We dropped David’s car at the Mono Meadow Trailhead. This is where we will be exiting, if things go well. Then we go back to the Ostrander Lake Trailhead (N37.66671, W119.60421). We start at 11:45—so much for an early start. This is later than what we wanted, but is still ok. This first day is pretty light.
This section of the trail we are well acquainted with. Ostrander is a hike we love and gone on a lot. This first section is fairly flat. We pass by the first junction (N37.64882, W119.60310), having decided to take the longer, but hopefully easier creek crossing. We get a little rain and some small, pea sized hail. Not enough to get poncho’s on for. It’s the only rain we get today.
Its 1:30 and we have made the Ostrander Lake junction (N37.63842, W119.58689). Stopped for a rest and some lunch. The rain stopped when we hit the trail junction. There is a nice breeze. So far we are doing ok, about a 2 mph average speed.
We leave the known trail and head westward for a bit. We cross Bridalveil Creek (N37.63915 W119.59215) on logs. But we all do ok. The second leg of the trail’s triangle is definitely a trail less traveled. But that is what makes it nice. We are probably the first ones on this small section of the trial this season. Even coming up this the trail is wet.
As we leave the trail junction (N37.63802 W119.60066) coming up from Bridalveil campground, Sherri sees a bear. A medium sized black bear. It is heading in the same direction as us, in its trudging, or as Sherri says, it is sauntering, along the trail. We let it get a head start, but catch up in five minutes. The moment it hears us, it runs off the trail and up the mountain side.
For the next several miles, the trail follows the creek as it gently climbs towards the end of the valley. We start over the moderate rise. I do a fair amount of huffing and puffing. But it is not long. From the top, we see the Chiluaniha valley area and its drainage, but not actually into Wawona. It is hidden behind the edges of the valley.
We meet a couple trails. At the last junction (N37.60882 W119.60657), we take a break. Steven’s pack falls apart. It’s the part which holds the frame to his waist. When it gets put on, it gouges Steven. He decides he can make it to the campsite about half a mile away (in reality, it was about a mile).
We stay at a ridge to the west of Turner Meadow. The campsite (N37.60135 W119.60174)is nice. Of course, the next morning, David in his wanderings will find a class A campsite about 50 yards away. Dinner is Szechuan Veggie Noodle with Chicken. Its OK tasting-Steven likes this meal the best. We build a fire and get warm and rested by it. Bed time is when sunsets.
Sherri’s pack weighs in at 25-28 pounds, while Steven’s David’s and mine are between 40 and 45 pounds. My starting weight is a little above 253 pounds—goal is under 250.
We got all packed and ready by 8:00 and went out to eat the Fresno Breakfast House. I had the meat lovers omelets; Sherri the Double Dipped French Toast; Steven and David had Toriso Orozelo (sic). By the comments, all are satisified. We left there around 9 and the bank at 9:30. Got to Wawona Ranger Station for a backcountry permit at 10:30. The ranger who issued the permit, Patrick Roe, we would eventually met Thursday.
We dropped David’s car at the Mono Meadow Trailhead. This is where we will be exiting, if things go well. Then we go back to the Ostrander Lake Trailhead (N37.66671, W119.60421). We start at 11:45—so much for an early start. This is later than what we wanted, but is still ok. This first day is pretty light.
This section of the trail we are well acquainted with. Ostrander is a hike we love and gone on a lot. This first section is fairly flat. We pass by the first junction (N37.64882, W119.60310), having decided to take the longer, but hopefully easier creek crossing. We get a little rain and some small, pea sized hail. Not enough to get poncho’s on for. It’s the only rain we get today.
Its 1:30 and we have made the Ostrander Lake junction (N37.63842, W119.58689). Stopped for a rest and some lunch. The rain stopped when we hit the trail junction. There is a nice breeze. So far we are doing ok, about a 2 mph average speed.
We leave the known trail and head westward for a bit. We cross Bridalveil Creek (N37.63915 W119.59215) on logs. But we all do ok. The second leg of the trail’s triangle is definitely a trail less traveled. But that is what makes it nice. We are probably the first ones on this small section of the trial this season. Even coming up this the trail is wet.
As we leave the trail junction (N37.63802 W119.60066) coming up from Bridalveil campground, Sherri sees a bear. A medium sized black bear. It is heading in the same direction as us, in its trudging, or as Sherri says, it is sauntering, along the trail. We let it get a head start, but catch up in five minutes. The moment it hears us, it runs off the trail and up the mountain side.
For the next several miles, the trail follows the creek as it gently climbs towards the end of the valley. We start over the moderate rise. I do a fair amount of huffing and puffing. But it is not long. From the top, we see the Chiluaniha valley area and its drainage, but not actually into Wawona. It is hidden behind the edges of the valley.
We meet a couple trails. At the last junction (N37.60882 W119.60657), we take a break. Steven’s pack falls apart. It’s the part which holds the frame to his waist. When it gets put on, it gouges Steven. He decides he can make it to the campsite about half a mile away (in reality, it was about a mile).
We stay at a ridge to the west of Turner Meadow. The campsite (N37.60135 W119.60174)is nice. Of course, the next morning, David in his wanderings will find a class A campsite about 50 yards away. Dinner is Szechuan Veggie Noodle with Chicken. Its OK tasting-Steven likes this meal the best. We build a fire and get warm and rested by it. Bed time is when sunsets.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Overview of June 2009 Vacation
From June 14th through June 19th, 2009, I went backpacking with my family. More specifically, with Sherri—my wife, Steven—my son, and David—my brother. My two daughters had other obligations and could not go. Our travels took us through southern Yosemite, starting at the Ostrander Lake Trailhead—even though we did not go there—to the Chilnualna and Given’s drainages and then back down Illilouette Creek. Even though the mileage was not great—according to the map, 36 miles—the GPS says a lot more—it was fun and we had enough miles to have us tired at night. Along the way we meet three bear, ten deer, and 18 people. The 18 people only count those away from the trail head area. During the trip we encountered rain, hail, snow, cold and heat. But we were able to enjoy tour surroundings and each other.
It was special time with my brother. David and I are close. Being with David and the way we worked together was a reaffirmation of the things our Dad taught us. We gave way to each other as appropriate and discussed what was needed. A lot of times I thought, Dad would be proud to see this. It is a blessing to have a brother who you genuinely enjoy being around.
It was special time with my brother. David and I are close. Being with David and the way we worked together was a reaffirmation of the things our Dad taught us. We gave way to each other as appropriate and discussed what was needed. A lot of times I thought, Dad would be proud to see this. It is a blessing to have a brother who you genuinely enjoy being around.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
May 18, 2009 Lower Paradise Valley to Back Home
What a difference a day makes! Got up at 6:00am. Ate breakfast—standard fare. Enjoyed the morning. Finished a GK Chesterton book-The Man Who Was Thursday. We should be taking off right about the time I would be at work. Still wonderful. The sun has not even reached our campsite yet,
We leave around 8:10. If we needed to, we could have cut 45 minutes off of our getting ready. But we have about 3 hours to get back to the car, so it is not bad to take it easy. (We take 4+ hours)
It is cooler. I hike in my shorts; Sheri in long pants. Once we hit the sun, Sherri goes to shorts.
It is good to hike in the morning. Everything is so fresh. We come around a corner, there are two deer laying in the brush, about 20’ off of the trail. The river is putting on a show. You see its mist puffing up from the river as it careens down its course. It is rushing down in its hurry and sometime fury to be the first at the end.
The flowers are out. Making ones trip colorful. Also saw a common king snake—at least I think it was.
Mist Falls was good. We took more pictures and then headed down. Made pretty good time. We stopped at our lunch spot at the bridge. Only two more miles to go. Got driven out of our lunch spot by bugs—not terrible, just more than our comfort at the moment. Sky is clouding over. We hear a couple sounds of thunder—but don’t feel anything. We get to the truck around 12:30. Certainly cooler with cloud cover.
Now off we go to Bear Mountain Pizza, then home. Good trip.
Just a note on what we missed. Saturday, the high was 99F. Then Sunday it was 106. Glad we were in the mountains. Even though we were sweating, we were still a lot cooler than in Fresno.
May 17, 2009 Day Hike: Lower Paradise Valley to Upper Paradise Valley
Got up a bit late. Felt very refreshed Last night I get up once to go pee and Sherri twice. During one of her outings, she decided to take my pillow outside—I must have done something wrong. But slept well other wise.
Light and dark comes late and early in the valley. The valley goes North and South and the walls are steep. I get up to pump water and read. Restful. Now to eat our oatmeal and granola breakfast. Breakfast was at 10am. That tells you how late we got up.
After lollygagging for awhile, we decide to go on a day hike up the valley. Between Lower Camp and Middle camp, the GPS measured .8 miles with a total of 243’ rise—but only a 100’ total elevation gain. Nice place to stay. Had lunch and rest—we are pretty pathetic, aren’t we?
As we progress up the valley, water falls from all parts of the valley’s rim. Some are mere rivulets’, others are full fledged falls. With the heat, the snow is melting fast, the water was flowing furiously. One such creek we had to take our shoes off to cross it—the water was cold.
Probably should say a word about the water filter. Our Hiker filter is much better than the previous filters. It is easy to pump; the water comes out cold and with the taste which I remember of Sierra streams.
We got to the Upper end of Paradise Valley around 3:00pm. The South Fork has made a swamp of the area. You could still get across it, but it is wading time. Since it is late in the afternoon, we decide to turn back.
The trip back to camp is pretty fast-about 2 ½ hours. Different scenery coming down—or at least seen from a different perspective. Back to camp around 5:30pm.
Had dinner—Beef stew in a bag. Washed up and then gawked for an hour at Avalanche Peak at the end of Paradise Valley. Went to bed a bit early.
Lots of deer around. River is slower, but wider. We go to bed as darkness falls.
May 16, 2009 Road's End to Lower Paradise Valley
First trip of the season! Actually the first trip out for me in the last two seasons. And we got a late start to boot. Blame me on this one—on two counts. First Sherri pretty much had to get this one together—she had to pack us on this one. And secondarily, I was working until this morning.
So Sherri got us packed and we left the house around 10:00am. Sherri drove until we reached Kings Canyon and I drove into the Canyon—Roads End. Got our permit and off we went. Well, sort of. Talked with some people from Washington about snow plants. Off we go a little after 12:30.
Rivers are running high. Even the creeks will be challenging. Sherri took of her shoes at the second creek after Copper Creek. This is a creek we would ordinarily cross by rock hopping, or it would be dry.
The day is hot. The first two miles. As we knew before, was going to be dry, sandy and exposed. But we are on the trail. Good joy!
We met a couple from San Francisco. At least they live there now. Greg is from Buffalo; Gorcha—at least I think that is how you spell her name—is from Poland. Turns out they need about twice as much water as they brought. Later on, we pump water for them, right before Mist Falls.
We stop for lunch at the Bubbs Creek Trail Junction. Its pleasant. Cooler. River is flowing swiftly. Lunch is the usual—peanut butter, nutella an crackers—ah so good. Its already after two—we have made some pretty good time.
Now It cools down, but the climb starts up the 600’ to Mist Falls. Sherri is doing pretty good. We shall hear the roar of the river until we reach Paradise Valley. We stop at Mist Falls to fill our bottles and make CytoMax. I get all wet from the spray. At least the one side of me does.
Now for the hard work. We climb 900’ up to Paradise Valley. It’s a familiar trail we like well. Sherri is starting to feel drained. But that all changes when we see a rattler on the trail. Medium sized. We wait for it to pass. It takes up residency in some rocks to the side of the trail. We pass on the other side. From that time forward Sherri stays a lot closer to me and I take more breaks.
As an aside, Sherri has been hiking with poles for four years. Myself, I am not sure about them. Andrea let me try hers for an hour a couple of years ago. Not sure that I am a true believer yet. But at the last REI sale, I bought some REI poles, but then traded them in for some Black Diamonds. This is the first use of them. Going on the flat or climbing on dirt they are great. For going up rock steps I came close to tripping a couple of times. I guess I will need to figure out how to use them. Oh yeah. Around the rattler, I was glad to have them. Will need to work with them.
We got to Paradise Valley a little before 7:00pm. Long day. Most of the spots already taken. We camp at #2. Pleasant enough, but exposed to the trail. The men in #3, next to us have a good conversation. We have soup and noodles for dinner. Then an after dinner Girl Scout cookie—sin and paradise all in one. Lots of deer around. River is slower, but wider. We go to bed as darkness falls.
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