Sunday, November 24, 2019

November 20-24, 2019-Death Valley


 
Death Valley - 2019
From November 20, 2019 through November 24, 2019


Our People : Trail People : ThoughtsTrail Log : References : Abbreviations



Our People:
Gary - That would be me
Sherri - My wife








Trail People:
These people included many whom I think will be folks whom we keep in touch with.  All of these were people were folks who camped close to us.



  • Yoni - Just moved to Las Vegas from New York. He came n with his motorcycle late on the 21st. We helped him set up his tent.
  • Alma and three of his children-He has been accepted to sing in the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. They all were adventuresome and very fit.
  • ???-A couple from Texas who was making a grand tour of parks in California. They are backpackers. We talked with them the morning when we left.

Thoughts:
Death Valley is something different than what we usually do. That may be a theme for this year. Because we also did another desert trip in the Spring: Anza-Borrego. I know that the Sierra is my first go-to place. But do I love the desert like I do the mountains? No, but there is still an allure to the desert: the desolation, the vastness, the feeling of how the planet goes on forever.

What was my favorite day on our trip? I would say when we went up Golden and Gower Canyons on November 23rd. It may have been because it was the only day of extended hiking, or because it was just down right interesting.

I am left with the thought that I would like to know more about the places where we hiked. Also that I am sure we will be coming back here again.

 
Journey Log:

Our journal is given by each day. Most mileages came from our GPS.

 
Date
Campsite
Miles
Walked
Elevation
Gained
Max
Elevation

11/20/19 Lone Pine-Best Western - - - Travel to Lone Pine. Rain to Bakersfield. Then a bit of snow around Lone Pine
11/21/19 Texas Springs 1.4 - - Set up campsite. Did an late afternoon hike to Natural Bridge
11/22/19 Texas Springs 4.31 370' 429' Walked around Badwater. Then drove Artist Dive. End of the day, hiked Desolation Canyon
11/23/19 Texas Springs 5.33 745' 521' Hiked Golden Canyon up to the Red Cathedral. Then used a cross trail over to Gower Canyon and back down to the car. Did a little bit of sky watching
11/24/19 Fresno 2.81 726' 1,506' Went to the Borax Mine, then hiked Mosaic Canyon. Drove back to Fresno






Our total walking was 13.85 miles, Our "average day was 3.5  miles with an ascent of  1,841'.  Nt much when you consider what we have done in the Sierra.


References:
For those of you who might be interested in hiking this hike, here are some references which you can consult:

Abbreviations:
  • NPS - National Park Service




November 24, 2019 - Borax, Mosaic Canyon and Home



Title: November 24, 2019 - Borax, Mosaic Canyon and Home
Hike Info : Description : Menu : Extra Photo's 
Hike Info:
Type: Hiking
Trail: Mosaic Canyon Trail
Destination: About a quarter mile up the trail, at the first anticipated obstacles
Actual Destination: About 1.4 miles up the trail, at a large boulder fall.
Distance:  2.81 miles
Start Time: 10:27
End Time:   12:33  
Travel Time: 2:05  (1.35 mph)
Moving Time: 1:42  (1,65 mph)
Elevation Rise: 726'
Descent: 562‘
Maximum Elevation: 1,506'
Description:

Today is the day we leave Death Valley. Since we went to bed a bit early last night, I woke up early-around 5:30. It felt cool out, so I stay in my sleeping bag until about 6:40 when Sherri opens her eyes.
At this point, we start moving around and get up. Breakfast is granola, which has the benefit of quick prep time and cleanup. But something which slows us down from leaving is we talk with our neighbors. They are backpackers from Texas. We ask about where do you backpack in that state? Mostly at Big Bend. That gets us going for a good half an hour or more.
Borax Wagaon

Packing up takes about an hour-the usual stuff-take down tent, pack sleeping bag. Pads, food, stove, and other things. Somehow the car looks full. And that is for five days and two people. Guess we will need to figure out this camping thing better.


Remaining Borax Works

But we are off. Our first stop is at the Harmony Borax exhibit. This area talks about how borax was mined and some of the importance it had on the park. It is interesting and we take about 30-45 minutes to take things in. 



 
Entrance to Mosaic Canyon
Breccia
And then it is onward. We do stop at Stovepipe Wells to pick up trinkets for the kids. Then onward to Mosaic Canyon. We go up a dirt road about 2+ miles to the trail head. We are hoping to do a quick hike up to the first obstacle and then turn back. The wash is pretty wide for the first 200 yards or so. Then it narrows. When it narrows, is where the formations gets exciting, at least for myself a non-geologist. The walls become polished like marble with layering which makes it looks like lamented wood, or more like pressed together-layered stone. (According to ProTrails , this is called Breccia, an Italian for 'fragment', is pronounced 'brecha') This has us in awe. Wonder if the pictures will come out.


Island in the wash

Boulder stopping point






We then come to the first obstacle. It is not huge and is not abrupt, about 7’ rise. But what makes this interesting is that it is marbled and slick from the many floods through time. The first attempt leaves us sliding backwards, so it looks like we may go back. But I take a running start and am able to get up. Sherri is content with remaining there until I return. But others encourage Sherri to go up. Success! and onward we go. You would think after yesterday’s success, this would be a piece of cake for Sherri.
Wide space before the side canyon
This next section is a bit narrow, but quickly opens up. Underfoot is gravel, while easy to walk, there is a fear of turning an ankle, it is a bit more strenuous on a pair of legs which sorely need to be strengthened. But I guess that is how you do it. I would say the wider part of this wash is not as spectacular as what we went through. Still it is good to be walking it. Such as what looks like a 20’ tall island in the middle of it. Wonder what that will be made into in another 15 years? Which is the main thing about walking these washes. What is here today, will not be there in a short, that is short geological time-frame. This is not the Sierra where the granite takes centuries to be shaped into a form.


Sherri in the middle of Mosaic Canyon
We walk for another 25 minutes or so when we come to the next obstacle, a set of boulders is blocking our route-like our guide book says it would be. A family comes up and scampers through the boulders. So evidently there is an easy enough way up. But we have another 5 hour drive once we get back to the car. So we figure it is a good excuse to turn around. But first, we partake of a Luna Bar before heading out.
Because we are going down a slight slope, all of a sudden I am bounding a head of Sherri. So I guess if I want to show my vitality and supposed superiority, I need to be going downhill. That is probably the thing I am taking away from this trip, that is besides the kalon of this place-both in terms of heart and the beauty.
Is Gary really climbing the side canyon wall?
We had passed a side canyon a little ways down. Since I was ahead of Sherri, I went up it-only about 20 yards. Then I came to the bane of our canyon travels-a stone vertical wall. Oh well, it was fun for the short time. Sherri catches up and we continue our travels down Mosaic Canyon. It is just a reverse of our trip up.
Re-entering the narrow
Of course, when you are going in the opposite direction, you see things differently. Like the wide area with the gravel. The gravel is still there, but instead of noticing the air island, we notice all of the sides of the canyon, including some paths along the tops of the walls. Interesting. I am beginning to see that this is someplace like my beloved Sierra which you can come back and explore so much there.




We pass through the narrows of Mosaic Canyon and into the marbled area. Remember the area which was a bit difficult to come up? It is now time to go down it. I find going down something harder than going up it. But not this time. There is a half of a culvert pipe made of marble which happened to be about the width of my hips. So I sat down and just slid. Wheee! Why can’t this happened more often? Feels better than a water park, just shorter, a lot shorter. Sherri on the other hand is not as confident of this venture. She tries a couple of ways down, before taking my method. Not sure that she had as much fun as I did. Which begs the question, why does she like roller coasters and I do not?

Rainbow Canyon



It is back to the car and a long ride back to Fresno. We stop at Father Crowley Point, where we came in last Thursday. Had lunch-still no jets in Rainbow Canyon. Then off for about five hours. When we hit highway 395, Sherri drives to Tehachapi where we fill up with gas and have a burger at McDonald's-first time in years.


About the only other items of interest on our drive back to Fresno. First, coming into Bakersfield from Tehachapi, we got a record 56.9mpg. Of course, it is almost all downhill that way. Still something which I doubt we will beat ever in the lifetime of our new car. The second, is we stopped in Bakersfield. We felt that we had to have a dinner of sorts, so a hamburger in Tehachapi fit that bill. But now for a Black&White sundae at Dewar’s. It was well worth enduring the hamburger. Now we can head home and enjoy a shower after a good trip.
Menu


Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Snacks
Granola
Sandwich, Peanut Butter, Nutella
McDonalds
Dewar’s Black&White Sundae
Clif Bar, Scratch, Coffee Candy, Jelly Belly



Extra Photo's
Entrance to Mosaic Canyon
End of our trail

Golden sides of Mosaic Canyon
Mosaic Canyon

Mosaic Canyon and well walked on area

More of Mosaic Canyon

Boulder Blockage
Gary's side canyon

Looking out of the side canyon

Mosaic Canyon
Brecca

Looking down the canyon at the Panamint Range

Mosaic Canyon

Death Valley and Stove Pipe Wells

Golden side of Mosaic Canyon


Saturday, November 23, 2019

November 23, 2019 - Golden and Gower Canyons



Title: November 23, 2019 - Golden and Gower Canyons
Hike Info : DescriptionMenu : Extra Photo's 
Hike Info:
Type: Hiking
Trail: Golden Canyon-Red Cathedral, Crossover to Gower Canyon, Gower Canyon
Destination: Loop
Distance:  5.33 miles
Start Time: 9:28
End Time:  2:20
Travel Time: 4:52 (1.10 mph)
Moving Time: 3:07 (1.71 mph)
Elevation Rise: 745'
Descent: 670‘
Maximum Elevation: 521'


Description:

I got up a bit earlier, just before the sunrise-actually, well before the sun came over the top of the ridge to our east, but it was light enough. Sherri said that I was snoring lost night-the sleep of the tired. But that is not what kept her awake. There was hum of a generator someplace in the distance which bothered her. Anyway, when she got up to go to the bathroom, I got up-she went back to bed. I was rested.
Side Wash to Golden Canyon
Breakfast is pancakes this morning. First time with this new mix. Not bad. We brought two cups of mix and mixed with almond milk, it only slightly was over-filling. We got everything put away and left the campsite around 9:15.

Rocks above Golden Canyon








It is only a short drive to the trail head for Golden and Gower Canyons, about 4 miles or so. The parking lot is also close to being full. After I changed into my boots-Sherri is walking in her tennis shoes-we take off. Neither of us are taking our poles. So far what we have seen is that the poles will get in the way.




Looking back down where we came
The walking us pretty easy; it is a gradual incline. I calculate the first mile is about a 350’ elevation gain, But the differentness from what we usually hike in makes it an interesting and walk-worthy of noticing the incline of Golden Canyon. Also at one time, now under boulders and up some sand there was a paved road up this-we see remnants of it here and there. (As a note: there was some scenes from the original Star Wars filmed in this canyon.)








A bit steep

One way down
When we get to the trail junction for Gower Canyon, we decide to take a trip up to the Red Cathedral. It starts our as more of the same. But after about 0.4 of a mile, it narrows and we start to do a bit of scampering under some boulders. Or up and over 3-4’ rises in the path. Sherri takes it like a trooper. I am left wondering how to get down these when we return. Also the path is getting steeper. Sherri is charging right up these, leaving me to bring up the rear. As we come along, we have passed people coming back down the path, all of whom said it was doable. But then the final rise comes along. It is really steep with scree on top of the path. There is a narrow path up to a wide space, but I decide that this was as far as I was going-I was having some balance issues. Sherri went up to the higher level-and she said that I was able to be helpful to her climb down.
A trail friend coming down from Sherri's perch
Red cathedral


We devour a Clif Bar break before we reach the Gower Canyon junction. That was nice being able to stop there. For whatever reason, I do better going down than Sherri. I do not think it takes away for her doing fantastic going up. Still there is a bit of niceness that I was able to help her down-call it my old fashion chauvinism.

Us on our way to Gower Canyon
After we pass the side of Manly Beacon, it goes downhill pretty good. There is another loop around the Badlands area-the part which we saw last night from Zabriskie Point. But she did not want to go to that one-and I agree with her, I am getting tired. We crab crawl down the couple of steep places. This is where the boots came in handy. Even with the scree, I am able to get a descent grip on the path.
When we enter Gower Canyon, Sherri and I find some shade and stop for lunch. This is a bit late, but it does help to revitalize us. I am not sure if it is the stop or the food, but I will take it. The walk down is not as relaxing as in the other canyons. It seems like the stones under foot are of different sizes, so when I set my foot down, I am careful not to twist an ankle. There are places a bit above the flow where the rocks are fewer and the sand is harder. I try to pick my way on them. When I can, my stride becomes more normal.
As we approached the end of the canyon, two things happened. The first, two ladies from Texas and a daughter, who is entering college next year. We walk with them all the way to the car, about a mile more. The interesting thing is that one of the ladies had a leg brace so she could do little more than swing her leg forward. Going over these rocks I was not pleasant for me. I can only imagine what it was like for her.
Sherri marching down Gower Canyon/Gulch

Chocolate topped mound
 Then the second thing is that there started to have some drop offs, not bad, but enough that some scrambling was needed to get over them. Evidently this is called the Lower Knickzone. But this brings me back to point one, how in the world is the lady with the brace going to get over and down? I offered her some help, but there was no need to fill any macho need I may have. She struggled a little, but made her way down without my male help. There was several of these little 3-5’ drops to get down. Not too much of an issue for any of us. As we traveled along, we talked with the ladies. They are from Texas and had come to Vegas for a wedding. The daughter, Luna, is an adventurer herself. We walk with them all the way to the cars.

Gary and the ladies in Gower Canyon/Gulch
But before we get back to the cars, there is one more obstacle of note. When we came out the mouth of Gower Canyon, there is a 30’ drop off. Now what do we do? Well there is a ledge to wrap us around the opening of the canyon and this hooks us into the trail. The ledge looks more scary than it really is. Once we start around it, piece of cake. A few steps along the trail, I look back and our campground neighbors was rounding the bend. When they catch up, we talk for a few minutes. For a person who is in some pain from a nerve, the father is moving pretty fast.
Now it is about ¾ of a mile back to the car. It feels good to get into the car and sit for a few minutes. Then it is back to the campground at Texas Springs. It is our last night, so we are concentrating on left overs. So our dinner is like the rest of our dinners, We get to rest a bit, not that we are going out to hike. 

Our camp friends exiting from Gower Canyon
 
As the skies darken, we get ready to go out to the Harmony Borax Works. The volunteer at the Visitor Center said Friday this is where they do their dark skies talk. The better place is the Mesquite Sand Dunes, but neither of us feels like driving 30 miles for this. It was hard driving in without bothering others and I do not think I was successful in this. I know that others were not. Still when our eyes got adjusted, the skies were a beautiful sight. Layers of stars above other stars as far as I could see. When I got my telescope focused, the sight was jaw dropping. No pictures-sorry.




We got back to camp by 8:30. I wrote and read. Then it is off to bed. Tomorrow will be a long day as we drive back to Fresno.


Menu


Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Snacks
Pancakes
Sandwhich: Peanut Butter, Nutella
More burrito’s.
Clif Bar, Scratch, Coffee Candy, Jelly Belly




Extra Photo's
Entrance to Golden Canyon

Looking towards the Red Cathedral
Side wash into GOlden Canyon


More mounds around Golden Canyon

Looking back at Death Valley through Golden Canyon's mouth. Also remnants of an old road

Looking across some of the lower areas

More looking into Death Valley

Manly Beacon

Dry Waterfall from Red Cathedral
Red Cathedral. Sherri's perch is in the middle of the picture

Manly's Beacon

Gary trudging up the cross over trail. Manly's Beacon.

Panorama including Gary and Manly's Beacon

More scenes from the crossover trail

Looking into Death Valley

Unnamed point to our west on the crossover trail

Manly Beacon from the base

Panorama including crossover trail

Panorama to the south and west

Manly Beacon

Zabriskie Point

Sherri with Manly Beacon in the background

Gower Canyon/Gulch and Gary

Gower Canyon/Gulch

Entering Gower Canyon, looking back


One of the many mines in Gower Canyon

Close up of the mine's entrance