Gary-Summer: Gower Canyon

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Tuesday, November 16, 2021

November 16, 2021 -Death Valley: Jensen Canyon and the Badlands Loop

Title: November 16, 2021 -Death Valley: Jensen Canyon and the Badlands Loop
Hike Info : Description : Background : Extra Photo's : Animals : Flowers and Plants

Hike Info:

Type: Hiking
Trail: Jensen Canyon
Trail head: border of Death Valley
Destination: End of Canyon
Distance: 2.09 miles
Start Time: 10:08
End Time: 12:36
Travel Time: 2:28 (0.85 mph)
Moving Time: 1:22 (1.53 mph)

Elevation Rise: 304 '
Descent: 334‘
Maximum Elevation: 2,563'

GPS Tracks

Hike Info:

Type: Hiking
Trail: Badlands Loop
Trail head: Zabriski Point
Destination: Loop including Gower Gultch and Golden Canyon Trails
Distance: 2.58 miles
Start Time: 2:41
End Time: 4:36
Travel Time: 1:55 (1.34 mph)
Moving Time: 1:27 (1.78 mph)
Elevation Rise: 447'
Descent: 461‘
Maximum Elevation: 663'
GPS Tracks

Car Mileage: 36 Mile

Description:

I woke up at 6:30 and enjoyed watching the eastern sky light up until 7am. I then got up and started straightening up the car.. We had gotten a bit disorganized. Sherri fixes pancakes and bacon for breakfast. It still is cloudy, but does not look very threatening. By the time we get all ready, it is 9:30.

Sherri walking to the berm.

The first adventure of the day will take us to the eastern edge of the park. This is a short ways beyond the Dante Overlook experience we had last night. But it is closer as we do not need to go the 15+ miles off the road. We come to the Death Valley sign and park. I do not think we interpreted the book^* correctly. In retrospect, it was trying to tell us to park a quarter mile west of the sign, but we parked at the sign.

We got ready for our hike and walked over to the berm which controls the flow of the Furance Creek Wash. The book tells us to descend into the wash, but the berm has a nice hard even surface, so we walk that for close to half a mile. Both Furnace Creek Wash and the canyon we are going to go up join at almost the same place. In this way the book was very explicit about which canyon to take-the second one. This is Jensen Canyon, which the book calls Mummy Canyon-more on that later.

Barrel Cactus

As we go up Jensen Canyon we start spying different types of cactus: barrel, cholla, and little beaver tail. The barrel cactus are the most noticeable. We see some with flowers which are about to bloom. Not much else as far as botany-there is the sage and various grasses, but nothing really exciting. I take that back, we did see one plant with yellow flowers on it.

One of many bones in the canyon

Who is Jensen?

Gary, Sherri and the Natural Bridge

The sun is beating down on us and it is getting pretty hot as we climb up the canyon’s slope. We find a sliver of shade and decide this is a good place to sit for a few minutes and cool off. If we had only gone twenty yards further, the canyon narrows and is totally shaded.

The canyon narrows

Our rest stop is about half a mile up the canyon. The canyon narrows considerably and it turns cooler. A couple of things of interest pops up. The book^* tells us to be on the lookout for something of historical interest. A few steps into the canyon’s narrow part, we see a large boulder with T.A. JENSEN 1862 written on it. Who is Jensen? We do not know, but it makes sense that the canyon on the maps are called Jensen Canyon. We enjoy the coolness, the wonder and sense of accomplishment from being here. Also, we divide an extra leftover pancake

The Mummy

We walk up the canyon further. Now instead of encountering cactus, we see bones. There is an assortment of these. Looks like a rib cage which has gotten scattered. Then a pretty big femur-I am guessing. This is followed by what I think is a goats leg. At least the hoof is still attached along with some hair.

Mummy's Head

It is a short walk from there to the end of where we can walk in the canyon. There is a 20’ wall, made of layers of pebbles, rock and mud. The the top, there is a small natural arch. Look at this wrong and you do not see it. But with the right view, it almost seems you are looking into eternity. We take an additional few minutes to ponder and rest.

The way back is a lot quicker. This may be a bit of wishful thinking on my part, but even when we exit the narrow part of the canyon back into the sun, it does not seem as hot. Is that a cool wind pushing us? One thing, which we can see as we exit the narrow part of the canyon is a column of rockish mud with what looks like a face and wings. There is a reason this canyon has the nickname of Mummy Canyon.

We make it back to the car in a reasonable time. In doing so, we figure out that instead of parking by the Death Valley sign, a little bit west of there would have been the optimal place, close to the curve of highway 190. This just means we get more steps in.

Sherri has been interested in a place called Hole In The Wall. But she is a bit apprehensive about going down it. From the map, it looks like it is a 4-Wheel Drive road. At least the first part of it is about the same level as the Delilah Road-not too bad. Just keeping it nice and slow. After a mile, we start seeing people camp out here. About four miles in, we drive through an opening in the rock wall-this is the Hole

Start of Badlands Loop

, into another wash. Lots more people camping here. Also the road gets a bit more rugged. We hear rocks bang against the under part of the car. Now, how to turn around? I find a place and we return down the road, without seeing the Hole in the Wall. Wait! Is that opening in the rock wall the Hole in the Wall? I believe it is. Later on, another book in the Visitor Center confirms it.

Zabriskie Point with golden clouds

By this time, it is 2:00pm and we have not had lunch. Se we stop at Zabriskie Point and have our lunch under the same rock giving us shade as yesterday.Sherri is interested in doing the Badlands Loop. I need to rest for a few minutes before deciding. After reclining for 20 minutes, I tell her I think I am up to it.

This loop starts to the north of Zabriskie Point and then drops below it. But to get to this part, you go through an opening in the ridge. Feels like we are entering into a new world. I think the trail is an old mining road-just a guess on my part. It has a pretty steep decline, but not a problem going down. But I am wondering about coming back up it.

Sherri has read navigation is easier going counter-clockwise. So when we get to a trail junction, we have a discussion about which way is clockwise. We take the trail leading towards Golden Canyon. It begins steeply, but only for a couple hundred yards. Then the trail wanders down through ridges and ravines until we hit the trail between Golden Canyon and Gower Gulch. Before hitting this trail, we meet a couple who wonders how much time it would take to get to Zabriskie Point. I can only tell them it is about a mile.

Then Sherri and I have another discussion about direction. We decide to head south. Turns out my mileage estimate is pretty accurate according to a sign there. We have been on this segment of the trail a couple of years ago, so we talk about where we had lunch and where we stopped and so on. We go along and hit Gower Gulch,

Now it is the final segment: back to Zabriskie Point, about a mile and a third, uphill. At this point, Sherri has more energy than I do and constantly out paces me. For my part, it is mostly putting my head down and keep moving. When we meet the original junction, I know the steep part is before us. Sherri goes up it at a steady pace. I go up it at a steady, but slower pace. Towards the top, Sherri notices an illegal drone being used on top of one of mounds high above us. I get a sketchy picture of it.

I am relieved to get back to the car. We drive back to camp as the skies darken into night. Sherri fixes us polish dogs for dinner. Afterwards, we mostly read before going to bed around 9pm.

Background

^*Best Easy Day Hikes Death Valley National Park. We went on two hikes listed in this book on this day:

Jensen Canyon/The Mummy. The book has this as an easy 1.8 mile out and back. It is. It is a pretty accurate rendering of our hike. We tacked on a little bit more because we misunderstood where to park.

Extra Photo's

Narrowing of Jensen Canyon

Layers of mud from flash floods past

Entrance of Jensen Canyon

Barrel Cactus

Gary on the Badlands Trail

End of Jensen Canyon

Layers of silt

The Mummy

Sherri walking the endless berm back to the car

Sherri on the Badlands trail

Manly Beacon

Sunset to the west

Gary trudging up the Badlands Trail

Is that Gary or an old leprechaun?

Animals

Goat's Leg

Bird

Whose jaw bone?

Spine with rib cage

Ribs?

Flowers and Plants

Beaver Tail Cactus

Barrel Cactus

Barrel Cactus Flower

Silver Cholla

Monday, November 15, 2021

November 15, 2021 -Death Valley: Desolation Canyon, Zabristkie Point and Dante Point

Car Route

Title: November 15, 2021 -Death Valley: Desolation Canyon, Zabristkie Point and Dante Point
Hike Info : Description : Background : Extra Photo'

Hike Info:

Type: Hiking
Trail head: Desolation Canyon
Trail: Desolation Canyon
Destination: End of Trail
Actual Destination: 8’ dry waterfall about a mile in

Distance: 2.01 miles
Start Time: 9:36
End Time:   11:44
Travel Time:  2:08 (0.94 mph)
Moving Time:  1:01 (1.98 mph)
Elevation Rise: 285'
Descent: 315‘
Maximum Elevation: 289'

GPS Tracks

Hike Info:

Type: Hiking
Trail head: Dante Peak
Trail: Dante Peak/ Mount Perry Peak
Destination: Dante Peak
Actual Destination: an overlook
Distance: 0.49 miles
Start Time: 3:02
End Time:  3:45
Travel Time:  0:43 (0.69 mph)
Moving Time:  0:25 (1.18 mph)
Elevation Rise: 240'
Descent: 138‘
Maximum Elevation: 5,593'
GPS Tracks

Car Mileage: 90 miles

Description:

It was a good night sleep with the skies lightning up for us around 6:30. Both of us got up shortly after that. But we were not moving with purpose. It is around 8 when we start eating our french toast and bacon. We left camp after 9 for Desolation Canyon.

Gary at the start of Desolation Canyon

We first see the full parking lot for Golden Canyon/Gower Gulch. Glad we have decided to go up Desolation Canyon-only a couple of cars parked there. Once we get to the parking lot, we remember we have done this trail before. But that is OK-as Sherri said, she is delighted just to do what we have done before.

The trail goes right up the canyon. The sides of it shows an assortment of color, not as vibrant as some places, still nothing drab about this walk. The UP portion of the initial statement is right. The trail goes against the water flow which created the canyon. Not an extreme ascent, but enough to let you know we are going uphill. The first half a mile is in the sun. For being 70 degrees, it is obnoxious. Sherri stops to put on sunscreen. But when we come to a major divide, we enter into shadows. My spirit is revived and my step becomes more lively. More sand is deposited from the tops of the canyon. It is fascinating just looking at these cones of sand.

Canyon path

And then we round a bend and see a couple seated. And then we realize why they are seated. There is an 8’ dry water fall. Plenty of footholds to go up. Not sure if I could get down without breaking something. And then, according to the book^*, there is another waterfall to climb. Neither Sherri or I are enthusiastic about the prospects of this. So we sit on the other side of the canyon and talk with the other couple. A few minutes later another couple comes by. The lady scampers right up the waterfall. The man waits a minutes and follows her. They do not come back.

A few minutes later another couple, we find out from Wisconsin. They look at the wall and the guy goes up it, only to return about five minutes later. He sort of figures out his way down, jumping the last several feet. They leave, so the other couple is left with us.

Sherri in the Canyon

We talk about several things-where we are from-they are from Eugene, Oregon. Their next place to go is to Joshua Tree and then to San Francisco. As they are about to leave I notice he has a backpacking backpack with him They have done the JMT in sections. We exchange notes about our experience. Their trail names are Fungi and Fragile Forder (in real life it is Jeff and Janice). Glad to have meet them. We realize that Janice was the one who yesterday warned us about the party campsite.

After they leave, we also go on down. There is a side canyon we go up-only a hundred or two yards until we come to a truly impassable dry waterfall, about 25-30’ up. We turn back and make good time back to the parking lot. Shortly afterwards the couple who went up the wall returned and said the view was great up there.

Gary and Sherri at Artist Pallette

Sherri had been reading about a trail in the book^* called Artist Dips. It is a route on Artist Drive between two dips in the road. We go drive the road, see the dips. Now to see if we want to actually walk it. There is two dry falls on the route. One 5’, the other 7’. At least we would not need to climb down the walls. See our November 18^th hike.

Afternoon meditation

We feel it is getting a bit warm, so we head up to Zabriskie Point, which is a couple thousand feet above the Valley floor. Before we go to the point, we find a spot in the shade and have lunch. Sherri goes into her meditation mode-I thought she might have fallen asleep. So we rest for a lot longer than our five minute allocation. Afterwards, we go up to the Point, a short, but steep paved trail. We take a look around. I take note of Manly Beacon-I am reading Manly’s autobiography. We talked about doing the Badlands Loop from here, but decide not today.

Badwater from Dantes View

But there is still time for an adventure. Up the road is the 20 Mule Team loop-driving. We take that and are duly impressed The route is only a mile or two on a dirt road. I think the idea is give the tourist an example of the type of terrain these teams had to drive. It is an enchanting area.

We continue our drive to Dante’s Peak area-you cannot drive to the peak. The area is 5,300+’ above sea level, right above Badwater which is 200+’ below sea level. Quite a contrast. The view is awesome. Clouds stretch out as far as we can see. But the view down and across the Valley can leave ne with a case of vertigo, if you are not careful. Looking beyond the ranges around the Valley, it looks like I can see Mt Whitney. A Wow! moment as you can see the lowest and highest points in the continental United States from here. (In looking at PeakFinder, I am wondering if what we are seeing is Mt Williamson. Still a pretty close relative to Mt Whitney. I suspect a bit up we would see Whitney.)

At Dantes View

The book^* says that it is an easy one mile walk to the peak. There is plenty of light, so we decide to do it. While I do agree that the rise is not bad, the trail itself is cut above a drop off. When we come to a split in the path, we go to a point which overlooks the Valley. The rest of the trail looks a bit precarious. Even the trail to this point is not without its nervous points. We decide this is good enough for us, so we turn back.

A couple is trying to determine if they want to go to the point. The woman is a bit nervous about it. I give some “sage wisdom” about how to tackle it. When we look back, they are standing where we were on the point. By the time we get back to the parking lot, they are also there. We high five their accomplishment. They ask what else, but they are going on to Las Vegas tonight. So there is not much else. We share the wonders of the parks in the west. Then it is time to head back to camp.

While up at the Dante Peak area, we noted the sky growing dark, not only because of the sunset, but because clouds were gathering. It looked like up north might be getting some rain. So we stop in at the Visitor Center. They say no chance of rain and only clouds. Sounds good. Not going to put a fly on the tent then. We also stop at the market and get some ice and syrup. Then back to camp.

Sherri fixes dinner-soup and a hot cheese sandwich. Tastes good and is satisfying. At 7pm, we phone in to Zoom for our House Church, We only stay as long to hear the prayer requests and then leave before Bible Study. It is dark here. Shortly afterwards, we get prepared for bed. Lights are off by 9pm.

Background

William Lewis Manly-Death Valley in '49, This is a journal well worth the readng, not for the literary value, but to see the dangers of the time to get to the California gold fields.

Best Easy Day Hikes Death Valley National Park. We went on two hikes listed in this book on this day:

Desolation Canyon. The book has as a moderate hike. This is if you go up and over the two dry waterfalls. We just went to the base of the first waterfall. For this it is an easy hike. The description of the hike seems pretty good.
Dante’s View and Point. The book has this as an easy(???) one mile hike to Dante's View and Peak. Elevation rise of 229'. While the trail itself is easy, it is a use trail on the side of a ridge. So the "easy" part is a bit misleading, particularly for those with height concerns.