July 17, 2013 - Trail Camp

Title: July 17, 2013 - Trail Camp

Hike Info:

Trail: John Muir Trail

Starting location:  Guitar lake
Destination:  Whitney Portal
Actual Destination:  Trail Camp
Distance:   9.2¹
Start Time:  6:03am
End Time:  6:50pm
Travel Time:  12:47 (0.72 mph)
Moving Time: 6:52 (1.34  mph)  ¹
Elevation Rise: 3,336'  ¹
Maximum Elevation:  14,506'

Description:

Psalm 19:1-4 (NIV), from today's quiet time:

The heavens declare the glory of God;
    the skies proclaim the work of his hands.
² Day after day they pour forth speech;
    night after night they reveal knowledge.
³ They have no speech, they use no words;
    no sound is heard from them.
⁴ Yet their voice goes out into all the earth,
    their words to the ends of the world.
In the heavens God has pitched a tent for the sun.

These words seem so appropriate, so right after all which we have seen and done. May my spirit offer the same words and praise.

The Night Sky silouetted by the top of the Sierras

I woke up at 2:30 to seeing the stars dance in the heavens. Then I turned over and saw lights on the move up past us, and on up to the mountains which we will climb today. My mind must have been excited as I could not return back to sleep for more than just a few minutes. 

Morning has broken

Sherri woke up around 3:30. I asked her if she was ready to start walking? No. But neither could she go back to sleep. So we laid there, watching the stars and lights, and thinking about how cold it was outside of our sleeping bags. Finally around 4:30, we got up and got packed. Just a wonderful sunrise, on the faraway peaks-rosy, orange and light. But we will not feel the warmth for several hours as Whitney and its range will be blocking the sun.

Guitar Lake

E'gads! Our propane canister has run out of fuel. Or is it just too cold? Whichever way, I am now glad we asked for Talia's canister back at Le Conte. Her canister fired right up and we had hot oatmeal on this cold morning.

Left our campsite at 6 and started up the long trail to Trail Crest. We will be in shadows all the way to Trail Crest.  Like the Tolkien song says, The Road Goes Ever Onward. But today is our last day on the Trail. Tonight Steven will pick us up, assuming we can make it down to Whitney Portal. Showers and burgers fill my mind as we walk along.

The trail is going up is strong and the oxygen is light.  This has us stopping for breath in the cold air, but the coolness does have the positive effect of having move along. Not really sweating. Before we know it, we have climbed up 500', then a thousand. I start playing a game of saying which pass we have just topped-Glen Pass, then Pinchot, Mather, Muir, and finally, of course, Forester.

Hitchcock Lake

We rise above Hitchcock Lakes, admiring the reflections of the rocks rising from the lakes. The sun is  shining on these slopes, creating a bright spots on our climb. We stop a couple of times to take off our packs. At 9, three things happens: we come out into the light, John B from Fresno appears, and we arrive at Trail Crest. All three are welcome, even though in a little while, the first will be less so. 

Trail up the side of the mountain

At Trail Crest, which is really about 200' below the actual pass, but the JMT does not go through the pass on its way up to Whitney. After unloading some of Sherri's pack and putting the contents into mine, we take off towards Whitney, with Sherri's pack, stocked with food and water. It took us three hours go from Guitar to Trail Crest. It will take close to three hours from Trail Crest to Whitney. 

Almost to the top

The climb up is along a trail which is always rocky, sometimes a bit narrow, and is perched on a steep incline for much of the way. Today was a light traffic day. When Sherri was up here before, the line could have been at Disneyland. You add in that the Badwater to Whitney Portal run ended today, you get a fair amount of trail runners as well. One sort of skidded in front of us, after passing us. He flopped around, trying to right himself, before realizing how close to the edge he was. But for us, we took our time and was cautious.  As we approached the top, the altitude was taking its toll on us. We stopped more and more often to catch our breath. We felt relieved as we turned the corner, and started up the third of a mile incline up to the peak. Many others were stopping and breathing along the way.

Smithsonian Hut

At the top (36.57886, -118.29185), we found the Whitney hut, actually called the Smithsonian Institute Hut. It was constructed to observe a solar eclipse. In the trail registry, we saw that the Ray and Rachel had made it to the top on Monday, July 15th. It was good to see that. But we did not see an entry for Nicole.

The Top

Celebration

Also on top, we see John from Fresno, along with George, Chris and Steve from Minnesota. Sort of like a family reunion. We talk for awhile. After much trying, got to send a text with our picture. Also Spot worked as well. 

That is when things got interesting. Called up Steven. He said that Andrea was coming in from the High Sierra Trail to surprise us. She would be there Thursday night, and climb over Whitney Friday. At least that is what her schedule is. That is a big surprise. What a wonderful daughter to think of us, and want to make our lives a joy. 

This does lead to one complication-what do we do now? Go back to Guitar Lake? Go down to Lone Pine tonight? Stop someplace else? We decide to stop on the trail down. We were not up to doing the climb out of Guitar again.

We called other family members, telling them we made it to the top. Also, that we have now officially completed the JMT, It is fun doing that--also fun just saying that. Got through to all, except Andrea, of course. David does say that not all of our Spot messages got through. The Minnesota group decides to leave the party after awhile. We talk with John for awhile longer, then he heads off as well.

Gary, King of the World

 

We stay on top for a total of an hour and a half, then start coming back down. It is faster-not as much need to catch our breath. But you do feel weaker, so we do not move very fast. Also with the rocky surface we have a tendency to be careful.

Whitney from the east

We rest at Trail Crest before we start our way down in the Lone Pine direction. We will try to make Outpost Camp tonight. Did I say down? The first little bit is another 200' climb, before we start our descent. Then down we go. Down, and down, and still more down. They have re-engineered this from seven years ago. I do not know, but Sherri  remembers a different trail. But the steepness, once again causes us to be cautious, so we go slow, about a mile an hour. Seems strange that we are going at the same speed down something as up it.

Trail Camp is by the pond

Around 6:30 we get into Trail Camp.  (36.56314, -118.27943) Sherri remembers this place as being human turd infested. But it looks like the Forest Service has cleaned it up quite a bit. As tired as we are, we decide not to do another two miles down to Outpost Camp. We find a suitable place. Then on the way to get water, a better place. Dinner is cooked. We see George, Chris and Steve a little ways from us and exchange greetings. Then it is off to bed. We look at pictures and fall asleep, knowing we do not need to get up early  tomorrow.

You may have noticed, that the description from the top does not contain these jaw dropping thoughts and observations. I guess by the time we got there, it just does not match up to the rest of the journey. It is the end, and that makes it special. it is wonderful to see the mountains upon mountains, looking down on everything around us. the cold, blue lakes, the barren landscape. but there is not a specialness to the place for me, like there is around some of the other high places we have been too. Even a lowly pass like Island, I have more desire to be at. I am not saying that I wish I was not here, but that the enjoyment is in the completion of the journey, rather than in the place. Do we think we will go up there again? Probably not.

Today's JMT Lesson: It does not matter how fast you go, as long as you get there.

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Beef Vegetable Wrap Milano Mint Chocolate Cookies	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls

 ¹The supplied figures above come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk or from topo maps. There was only partial tracks for today in my GPS. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance:  9.41 miles

Elevation Rise:  1,805'

Maximum Elevation: 14,505'

On the trail up

The Windows and Mt Muir from Whitney

Trail down to Trail Camp

Marmot Heaven

July 15, 2013 - Tyndall Frogs Ponds

Title: July 15, 2013 - Tyndall Frogs Ponds

Hike Info:

Trail:  John Muir Trail

Starting location: About 10,600' on Bubb's Creek

Destination:  Tyndall Creek

Actual Destination:  Tyndall Frog Ponds

Distance:   9.8  ¹

Start Time:  7:00

End Time:  4:30

Travel Time:  9:30 (1.03 mph)

Moving Time: 5:39 (1.73 mph)

Elevation Rise:   2,706' ¹

Maximum Elevation: 13,100

Description:

Slept somewhat restless. I think Sherri did also. Got up around our normal time. But the sky seems darker, but the only clouds are far off. Probably means more clouds this afternoon. It will do us well to get over Forester Pass earlier than later.

Wall below Forester

The trail does climb, but we are in the woods. Glad we have climbed a few passes before this one. We know it is a long haul, but you can never be too prepared for something like this one. We even pass by where we stayed 40 years ago, even though, it takes a it of remembering to see the spot.

Bubbs Creek Drainage

Still, it is up, up, and more up. But along the way, there are jaw dropping views. So we keep going. Doing a whole lot better than Glen yesterday. While we travel about 4 miles and climb 2,500'. But given that, we really did not start to breath hard until about 12,000' elevation. Even then, we were able to go pretty well. The grading of the trail is probably one of the best we have seen.

Another thing is the vistas keep on showing new views of the slopes we have been looking at. The clouds which have been forming constantly give us a new backdrop to the mountains. Not only that, but when we lower our eyes, our gaze is met by delicate flowers growing on whatever soil they can find.

 After hours of hiking, we finally have made it to the top of Forester Pass. Out of all the people who have passed us, only two remain-Chris and Steve from Minneapolis. They are waiting for Chris's father. We have been around them for the past couple of days. The views are fabulous in both direction.  We are at the boundary of Sequoia and Kings Canyon. You can even see over into the eastern side of the Sierras.  We stay up there for about an hour.

Up to Forester

South from Forester

Looking back at Forester

Down Forester

Then we start down. This is a trail cut from the side of a cliff. Just phenomenal! You are looking straight down some thousand feet. Yet the trail is wide enough for a horse. But, you do not want to go too far away from the side of the cliff wall. Hope the pictures come out. We did find some trail art-was this for us? Or am I being narcissistic?

When we reach the first creek from a tarn, we stop for lunch. Chris, Steven and George all have stopped here as well. Relaxing, and enjoyable, but we are baking a bit in the high altitude sun. So we start down towards Tyndall Creek. It is a long trek down. The sun does wear on us. But even more so, is the pounding and skipping around of going downhill. Unless you do some of these long Sierra downhills, you may think that downhill must be easier than the climb. But going uphill, you get into a rhythm of step, breath, step, breath. Downhill, most of the time, there is not such a nice spacing as that.

We do stop for a break along the way. There are some big marmots scampering around. We are asked if one of them is a wolverine-nope. We finally make it to the woods, which provides some protection from the sun. Then in a little ways, we see Tyndall Creek itself. George and group have already found themselves a place. But we think we have a little bit more energy, so we go on. 

Towards Tyndall Creek

We debate whether to stop at the frog ponds or up on Bighorn Plateau. So we climb the 400' up to the frog ponds. Once we get there, we rest for a bit, then decide to stay. Found a nice site by the trail (36.63479, -118.38577). A hiking group from Orange has already pitched their tents the sites close to the pond. The other sites are nice, but if others come, people will be tent to tent to tent. 

Today's JMT Lesson:  You have only reached the top when you have arrived.  (From a fellow hiker)

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers Humus	Unstuffed Potatoes Milano Mint chocolate cookies	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls

 ¹The supplied figures above come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk or from topo maps. There was only partial tracks for today in my GPS. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance:  10.0 miles

Elevation Rise:  1,708'

Maximum Elevation: 13,100'

Bubbs Creek Valley

Last Camp before Forester

Higher view of Bubbs Creek Drainage

Sherri Climbing

Flowers of Forester

July 14, 2013 - Bubbs Creek

Title: July 14, 2013 - Bubbs Creek

Hike Info:

Trail: John Muir Trail

Starting location:  Rae Lakes

Destination:  Upper part of trail to Forester Pass

Actual Destination:  About 10,600' on way to Forester

Distance:  9.3  ¹

Start Time:  7:20

End Time:   6:10

Travel Time: 10:50 ( mph)

Moving Time: 5:50 ( mph)

Elevation Rise:  2,420'  ¹

Maximum Elevation:   11,960'

Description:

Painted Lady

I must have been anxious about today. Woke up several times last night wondering if it was time to get up. Morning is bright and crisp blue sky with no wind. Sun is just starting to hit the Painted Lady.

At 7:20, we get a good start to going up to Glen Pass. Leaving behind the blue, inviting lakes we stayed by last night creates a longing to stay. But the steady climb of switchbacks are calling us. We start taking our breaks about every half of a mile. At our second break, we are passed by a group of young men, whom we label as the singing Boy Scouts, even though they are a little older than that. But they are going up this without breathing hard, nor stopping their singing. Amazing, since we are doing what we need to do to breath-even at rest.

Rae Lakes

 

Going up to Glen Pass, I am the weak link. Usually I am waiting for Sherri. But today, she is keeping up with me. She says that my breathing is a lot more gasping, that is for air, than usually. I am having more troubles with this pass than other higher ones, or ones which we have had to climb up more. It may be steeper, or maybe I am getting weaker. I do not know.

Range after range after range to the south

But once on top, we have such a scenic view of those tarns we have been looking at on the way up. Rae Lakes have popped back into view. As Sherri said, from this perspective, Rae Lakes just looks like another big tarn. She thinks the tarns look like alien lakes, maybe because of their deep blue-green colors, surrounded by all that rock. But you see them more like emeralds, even with their own islands. Their beauty does shine out, drawing you. But then your gaze looks across at where you came from. Range upon range of mountains. Some of which we traveled several days ago. The Palisades are there; Cardinal Mountain; and maybe even Mt Goddard. Then you look where to you are going and see this same series of mountains which we will need to cross. You wonder are we up to it?

Matt and Derek with Sherri

Also on top, are the singing Boy Scouts, which now that we see them, we wonder if they are Boy Scouts. They seem older, may be Explorers. But there is an older person with them. We have seen them lift off a balloon, maybe a weather balloon. They are from San Diego area. We got our Capture California picture for the hike with Matt and Derek.

Also Larry and Paul are up here, with three others who have made it to the top with us. It does seem a bit crowded with all of us on this narrow strip marking the difference between waters going to Woods Creek and Bubbs Creek. But nobody falls off, even though we are a bit leery of any sudden movements.

On top of Glen Pass

We start the descent down the south side of the pass, with me in the lead. Why? Because I seem to be the least concerned with the sheerness of the slope. This will seem funny to my brother as he is the one who is fearless in our family. But with I in the lead, Sherri following and Larry and Paul bringing up the rear, we make it down the trail safely.

At one of the stops, we find out that Larry is a Lutheran pastor while Paul teaches the electrical trades at a technical college in Green Bay.  We sort of walk with them, then lose them, only to regain them at lunch break at the junction with the Kearsarge Pass trail. Here we also eat lunch with three others whom we will get to know through the rest of the trip-George, Chris and Steve.

Bubb's Creek Valley

After lunch we continue down the sides of the valley which Bubbs Creek form. As we go down, we see the Videttes-both east and west. Seems like it takes awhile to get down this. But we are making it down farther than we did the Rae Loop a couple of years ago. When we get down to the floor, finally, we go a little ways, then take a break. Nothing fabulous, but refreshing.  Being intrepid, onward we go. Soon we see Paul and Larry, setting up camp. Sounds like they will be about a day or two behind us. So we say farewell and it has been good walking with them.

The Videttes

Center Peak

Up a ways, we start thinking about  where we wanted to stop for the night. It is a trade-off between getting some rest tonight and  setting up to tackle Forester Pass tomorrow. The higher up we go, the easier tomorrow will be. But we have about a 2,000' climb to get up to the highest feasible camp space. We are not going to be able to do this. So we pick a campsite around 10,000'. When we get there, there is a flock of tents, so on we go. The next stop is the creek which comes out of Center Basin. People are camped there, but being eagle-eyed, I think I see a spot above the creek on a ridge.  But when I pop my head over the ridge, there is a tent and a couple of men relaxing-we will see them tomorrow. So again onward we go. About a quarter mile up the trail, it cuts back and comes reasonably close to the creek. Plus there is a little draw where we can put a tent out of sight. It is a good place, better than the others we wanted to camp at. (36.73048, -118.37161)

What a glorious evening. There are still clouds in the sky, but looking down Bubbs Creek, the sun reflecting its golden rays. What a sight. Sherri and I are the only ones to collect this sight from a rock rock outcropping just outside of our camp.

Shortly afterwards we go to bed. It is getting colder. We watch half of Dr Who episode. I read, then go to sleep around 9:20.

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Beans with Tortillas	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls

 ¹The supplied figures above come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk or from topo maps. There was only partial tracks for today in my GPS. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance: 9.50 miles

Elevation Rise:  1,566'

Maximum Elevation: 11,910'

Center Peak

Upper Rae Lake

July 13, 2013 - Rae Lakes

Title: July 13, 2013 - Rae Lakes

Hike Info:

Trail: John Muir Trail

Starting location:  Woods Creek Crossing

Destination:  Rae Lakes

Distance:  6.8 miles ¹

Start Time:  8:20

End Time:   3:30

Travel Time:  7:10 (0.95 mph)

Moving Time: 4:24 (1.55 mph)

Elevation Rise:    2,053'  ¹

Maximum Elevation: 10,600'

Description:

Looking back North

Even though this is a slow day, we will be rising up 2,000' in about 6 or 7 miles. This should give us a jump on Glen Pass tomorrow. In the meantime, Rae Lakes is the crown jewel of the JMT. So it will be a pleasure to spend time there.

The rise up is a continual rise, most of the time, nothing extreme. But not too terrible gentle either. The skies are clear, so in the morning this hike is pretty nice. We are in some forest and a bit of meadows, with a creek crossing or two.

Dollar Lake and Fin Dome

We meet up with a couple of groups doing the Rae Lake Loop. The first is a family of four formerly from the Ukraine. The kids are are 6 and 11. They looks like they are doing pretty good. Quiet, expected, full of inquisitiveness, and enjoying themselves. What a good education and training for them. The second is two friends from the Bay Area-Caroline and Lea. They are doing the JMT in segments. We seem to see one of them each time we stop.

Lower Rae Lake

Speaking of stopping, we stop at Dollar Lake for a leisurely lunch. Beautiful, peaceful lake. Looks like much of the camping is restricted from around the lake, but Sherri found a place or two up above the trail. This would be a good place to stay, if one is doing as the Loop on a slow schedule.

Mt Rixford and the Painted Lady

Each time we look back the place where we camped last night, it looks lower and lower. Of course, that says we get higher and higher. Just fantastic seeing this spread out behind us. As we look forward, we start to see Fin Dome, the Painted Lady and the rest of the mountains around us.

Middle Rae Lake

We got in around 4, or a little before (36.80294, -118.40273 ). Nice time to rest. We do see another piece of trail art. Is the message for us? From Ray and Rachel? We will need to ask them. I take a dip in Upper Rae Lake. Must have left a slick of trail dust on the lake-no longer, it no long is as pure as it once was. But it does feel oh so good. Then it is time to wash clothes. The wind helps to mostly dry them. Dinner is Spotted Dog.  We go to bed a bit early-before 8, mostly because it it getting cold, but the wind lets up. We decide to put the rain fly on to help keep warm.

Our Camp

For us?

Today's JMT Lesson:  O Lord, Our Lord, how majestic is your name in all the earth and heavens. Psalm 8

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Ranier Spotted Dog	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls

 ¹The supplied figures above come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk or from topo maps. There was only partial tracks for today in my GPS. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance:  7.6 miles

Elevation Rise:  1,887'

Maximum Elevation: 10,600'