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| From Andrea's early morning run |
I woke to my roster alarm this morning at 7:30. I was a bit surprised as I thought I would be getting up around 6. But sleeping in that made sense. I felt that I was set for a good night’s sleep last night. But after midnight, Sherri woke up to an alarm-I was sleeping soundly. The sound actually came from our old room. The hotel came up and said something about it being set off. I had a bit of a time going back to sleep. Then woke up at 4. Once again taking my sweet time falling back asleep.
I was going to walk when Andrea went for her run. But I slept through that. She joined me for my granola breakfast this morning. And now it is closing in on 8:30 and we are to gather downstairs. Then it is off to the Black Sheep Cafe for pastry and coffee. I sit outside, enjoying the people passing by and writing a few notes for my blog, along with reading some emails. The others come out and join me.
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| Black Cab |
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| Divis Tower |
But then Rachel texts and asks where are? She had gone to the BlackCab area, just 50’ from us, around the corner. See how easy it is to be so close, but yet so far? Once we all get together, we find the cab we are to be in. Kieran is our driver, guide. Also there are many BlackCab Tour companies. Rachel booked us with Cab Tours Belfast. We all piled into the cab-four in back and I in front. The back has two seats facing backwards and two facing forwards. I did not hear any complaints about it being too crowded.
We start out by talking about who we are and where we are from. He introduces us to himself, a non-practicing Catholic who lives out of town, away from the craziness which is the dispute between the West Belfast Catholics and Protestants.
He then asks us how do we know if we are talking with a Protestant or Catholic? To start with, if the person is an “O’” like in O’Conner then it is a Catholic, vs just Conner. The “O’” means son of. Then there are the given names such as Sean instead of John, or Liam instead of WIlliam. Finally, the location in town would provide the final clue. This is all in prelude to the point that when Ireland pulled away from the United Kingdom, the Northern Irish was 70% Protestant. The Northern Irish kept with the United Kingdom. The Catholics living in it were treated as second class citizens, experiencing discrimination both socially as well as in employment. Protestants got jobs, Catholics got discrimination.
As a note, four years ago, I read a book in our Osher Book Club called Say Nothing by Patrick Radden Keefe. Much of what our guide shows us on the tour brings back memories of the book. Such as the first stop we make is at a mural. But lurking in the background is Divis Tower, the setting for much of the book. This is a 70 year old housing complex. During the troubles, the British placed sharpshooters on top of it. The building was Catholic which led to a great deal of friction there and to Jean McConville to be killed.
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| Clonard Memorial Garden |
Kieran noted that there is a great deal of empathy among the Irish for oppressed peoples. As we drove around, there were mural supporting the people of Gaza as well as Palestinians. My guess is that 20 years ago, we would have seen murals for the Blacks of South Africa.
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| Mural by Lanark Gate |
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| Message on wall |
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| Steven and Andrea writing on wall |
The next stop is the Bobby Sands mural. Bobby Sands was the first of the prisoners to die from a hunger strike. The British felt that the IRA were criminals and wanted to treat them that way. Symbolically, they wanted to put them into prison uniforms. Sands and those with him said they were political prisoners, not criminals. They refused to wear the uniforms and went on a hunger strike. Sands was the first to die, but not the last nor the longest. Right around the corner is the Sinn Finn headquarters. Sin Finn is the political action arm of the IRA.
We stop at Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden. This is a memorial of Catholics who died during the Troubles. I have a sense of sorrow about this place. Sorrow for lives lost and sorrow for a city divided. A sorrow that we do not learn from Christ and that it seems like His sacrifice is for not. It seems like the small differences in beliefs is a cover for the violence of power and discrimination As U2 said, How Long? (Bloody Sunday)
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| Protestant Memorial Garden |
If you have a wall and streets, you must have ways in and out. Gates were established so that at night they would be closed, all except one which was heavily guarded. Also our cab driver noted that there needed ways in and out of the enclosed areas for emergencies like fire, crime and medical. The cab driver took us to the Gates at Lanark Way. The gates and the surrounding are colorful with a mural. Colorful, except for one stark gray panel depicting the violence which was on the streets. A reminder than not all is peaceful.
Down the streets from these gates is the signature wall, the Peace Wall. Visitors leave messages, mostly of peace and love and reconciliation. These panels stretch for a long ways-I am unsure of the distance but I would say at least half a mile or more. Andrea, Sherri, Steven and Rachel leave a message. I am in contemplation over what I have seen and do not think I have either the words to express my thoughts, or the words which would make a difference.
There are memorials throughout West Belfast. We are taken to a Protestant tribute called Bayardo. Here there are many posters with the pictures of Protestants who died. Jeannie McConnely was one of them,a name I remembered from my book Say Nothing.
The last memorial we are taken to is the Steve “Top Gun” McKeag memorial. He was a Protestant sharpshooter who would pick off Catholics, many for no reason except because they were there. But the most disturbing aspect of this memorial were two guns whose nozzles pointed at you wherever you went. Our guide said that this is how it felt to be walking around Belfast-being a potential target.
Our guide had lots of commentary. He definitely felt that all of the violence of the time did not accomplish anything. As a non-practicing Catholic, he moved his family away from the city to protect his children. Some of the terms he used for those who perpetuated the violence were nut job, bonkers and knuckleheads. There seemed to be other terms in his vocabulary, as well, to describe the Troubles.
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| City Hall |
After the tour, which ended about 10:30, we headed back to the hotel room to finish packing. Sherri and I got out about 11:40. The last of our group comes down a few minutes before noon. We are able to stow our luggage while we wander around for the next hour.
We headed back over to the City Hall where Andrea ran this morning. We look around at the statues and memorials. The names and people must have local significance. But the thoughts which I started having about who remembers the dead from San Francisco and the Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta still wander through my mind. While probably not very appropriate for a place I am not familiar with.
We start to wander around, but not far as we come to the Linen Hall Library across from the City Hall. The library is Belfast’s oldest one. We go up a set of stairs to it. Turns out that this is the last membership library in Northern Ireland. This is not as much of a shock to me as to others as the book The Paris Library talks about the library having subscribers.
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| Vertical Exhibit |
We wander through the stacks. Then I start wondering if Sherri’s Dad’s family is talked about in the library. They have a genealogy area, but no books on Dickey. The reference librarian is very helpful. Then there is a display wall. The library calls it their vertical exhibit wall. They have political protest posters covering three stories of wall. One of them says Say Nothing.
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| Walking to our train |
The AirBnB is a three story affair. It is clean,with three bathrooms, four bedrooms. Everybody should have a chance to get some rest tonight. As good as the Belfast hotel was, it was a bit cramped for space with three different types of sleeping patterns. An immediate concern is what to eat tonight. Rachel and I go to Tesco for food. We pick out ravioli and tortellini for dinner and ice cream for our reward. This hits the spot.
But all is not exceptional with this place. When we have dinner it seems like it is a bit under-equipped for a party of 5. Looks like we will be washing dishes after each meal. We need to do our wash and the washing machine and dryer does not seem to work very fast or maybe not well. It may take about 4-5 hours per load and the dryer seems to be pretty hot. We go to bed at about 11.
Background
The Wall Our guide said that the Wall creates a sense of tribalism. This is because those on either side, separated by no more than 10 feet, cannot mix. A playground on the Catholic side is separated by the wall and the Protestant children cannot play there. There is an interesting article in the Architectural Review from 2021 which identifies The Wall as something which is hampering the reconciliation of youth. People have grown up and never have met people on the other side of the Wall.
Cab Tours Belfast When I was researching out the places we went, I noticed that Rick Steves had been in Belfast before us. He had gone on a Black Cab tour as well, and used this particular company. Rachel chose well.
Dublin. Our guide suggested we go to Clarendon Pier. Also while in Dublin, steer away from the Temple Bar area as it is overpriced-we did go to one place in Temple Bar, Boxty.
I have kept the Doing Troubles Tour from GPSMyCity which I had pulled in case we did the walk. it explains a few different places than where we went.
Decades past the official end of The Troubles in Belfast, the price of peace in Northern Ireland remains high. One of the means with which to secure it, back in 1969, was erecting a wall to physically separate the capital's warring Protestant and Catholic communities. Known since as the Peace Wall, the structure has become a popular tourist attraction for the multiple murals painted thereon ever since – some talking of harmony, whilst others carrying messages of revenge or oppression.
Walking down the Catholic Falls Road and Protestant Shankill Road in Belfast, you can find many other signs of division, too. Being reminders of the past, they also serve as symbols of the present, quite somber yet still worth learning about, including:
Bobby Sands Mural – a world-famous painting of the Irish Republican Army leader and elected member of the UK parliament, who died in prison from a hunger strike.
Irish Republican History Museum – holding a collection of artifacts and relics related to the period in the Northern Irish history, known as The Troubles.
Garden of Remembrance – a memorial garden dedicated to the IRA members killed during The Troubles, as well as civilians and deceased ex-prisoners.
Shankill Road Memorial Gardens – a memorial to the victims of bomb explosion on Shankill Road, carried out by the IRA in October 1993 in an attempt to assassinate the Ulster Defence Association leadership.
To explore these and other sights of Belfast that tell the story of The Troubles and peace process via artwork and other media, take this self-guided walk and expand your horizons.
The Bobby Sands Mural is a world-famous portrait of the IRA leader. It is painted on the walls of the Sinn Fein Political Party Press Office at the corner of Sevastopol Street and Falls Road. It is based on a photograph taken of Sands while he was imprisoned.
In 1977, Bobby Sands was imprisoned in Long Kesh Maze Prison for 14 years for gun possession along with a number of other IRA members and leaders. While in prison, Sands and his cohorts demanded that they not be forced to wear prison uniforms or do prison work. They also wanted to be able to associate with other prisoners and receive visitors and/or packages. Denied these demands, Sands and the others went on a hunger strike.
Sands was elected to the UK parliament during his time in prison. However, he died from the hunger strike before he was able to take his seat. This mural of his smiling face was created as a memorial in 1998. It is one of many murals in Belfast, but is arguably the most well known
Irish Republican History Museum
The Eileen Hickey Irish Republican History Museum is located in Conway Mill in West Belfast. The museum first opened in 2007 but it located in a former linen mill that dates to 1842. It opened on the anniversary of the death of the main benefactor of the museum, Eileen Hickey.
Hickey was the former Officer Commanding of the Provisional Irish Republican Army (IRA) prisoners in Armagh Women's prison and she dedicated her life to preserving artifacts and relics from the period in Irish history known as The Troubles.
Some exhibits at the Irish Republican History Museum include a jacket worn by Mairead Farrell, a cell door from the Armagh women's prison, weapons used during The Troubles, items sculpted by prisoners and a large number of posters, paintings and articles. The museum is also home to a library and interpretive center.
The Irish Republican History Museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 2 PM.
The Garden of Remembrance is a memorial garden in Belfast, dedicated to the Irish Republican Army "D" Company members killed during The Troubles, as well as civilians and deceased ex-prisoners from the "D" Company area which is the Fall Road area, which has historically been a predominantly Irish Republican area during the conflict.
The garden features an iron gate, with a patio leading towards a large plaque. There are gardens on either side of the walkway. An Irish Tricolor flies over the plaque.
The Garden bears a message in both Irish and English:
"This monument was erected by the Falls Cultural Society on behalf of the Residents of the Falls Road dedicated to those brave and gallant vols of D' Company 2nd Batt Irish Republican Army who made the supreme sacrifice in their quest for Irish Freedom
The Belfast Peace Walls are barriers that separate Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods through the city. They were originally built in 1969 to establish peace by separating sectarian groups. Today, they are popular tourist attractions.
Arguably, the most famous Peace Wall is located between Shankill Road and Falls Road. There is also a large Peace Wall along Cupar Way, which has become a canvas for local artists. Graffiti and street art intermingle on the Peace Walls to provide color to the city while also reminding citizens and tourists of the strife of the country.
The walls were originally meant to be temporary structures. Ironically, the structures have not only stayed in place, but have increased in number. The most recent Peace Wall was constructed in 2017. There are now 59 in the city.
The Belfast City Council began a plan to remove the Peace Walls, but the vast majority of residents believe they continue to help quell violence. Still, the plan is for all Peace Walls to be removed in the future.
The Shankill Road Memorial Garden was constructed as a memorial to victims of a bomb explosion on Shankill Road. The bombing was carried out by the IRA in October 1993 as an attempt to assassinate the UDA leadership. The bombing killed one IRA member, a UDA member and eight citizens. It also wounded over 50 people.
The garden was opened on May 29, 1994. In addition to serving as a memorial to the Shankill Road bombing victims, the garden honors casualties from both World Wars along with other conflicts.
Visitors to the Shankill Road Memorial Garden will find a memorial stone and lamppost. Each contain ashes from the flowers placed at the bombing. The gated garden has floral plots, shade trees and numerous benches.
Shankill Road Memorial Garden is located on Shankill Road next to the West Kirk Presbyterian Church. It is open to visitors 24 hours, seven days per week.
The Shankill Road (from Irish: Seanchill, meaning 'old church') is one of the main roads leading through west Belfast. It runs through the working-class, predominantly loyalist, area known as the Shankill.
The road stretches westwards for about 1.5 mi (2.4 km) from central Belfast and is lined, to an extent, by shops. The residents live in the many streets which branch off the main road. The area along the Shankill Road forms part of the Court district electoral area.
In Ulster-Scots it is known as either Auld Kirk Gate ("Old Church Way"),[better source needed] or as Auld Kirk Raa ("Old Church Road"). In Irish, it is known as "Bóthar na Seanchille" ("the road of the old church"
Extra Photo's
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| Titanic Mural |
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| Solidarity with the Palestinians |
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| Sinn Fein Headquarters |
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| Protection against rocks and bottle thrown over the wall, next to Clonyard Memorial Park |
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| Lanark gates |
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| Poster by the Lanark Gates |
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| Mural on the Wall |
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| Jeannie McConnville at Bayardo |
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| Pro United Kingdom section of West Belfast |
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| End of the Wall |
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| Mary Ann McCracken - suffargate |
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| On the gate into Belfast City Hall |
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| War Memorial |
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| Entrance to the Linen Hall Library |
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| Picturing Gulliver and the Tiger |
