July 17, 2013 - Trail Camp

Title: July 17, 2013 - Trail Camp

Hike Info:

Trail: John Muir Trail

Starting location:  Guitar lake
Destination:  Whitney Portal
Actual Destination:  Trail Camp
Distance:   9.2¹
Start Time:  6:03am
End Time:  6:50pm
Travel Time:  12:47 (0.72 mph)
Moving Time: 6:52 (1.34  mph)  ¹
Elevation Rise: 3,336'  ¹
Maximum Elevation:  14,506'

Description:

Psalm 19:1-4 (NIV), from today's quiet time:

The heavens declare the glory of God;
    the skies proclaim the work of his hands.
² Day after day they pour forth speech;
    night after night they reveal knowledge.
³ They have no speech, they use no words;
    no sound is heard from them.
⁴ Yet their voice goes out into all the earth,
    their words to the ends of the world.
In the heavens God has pitched a tent for the sun.

These words seem so appropriate, so right after all which we have seen and done. May my spirit offer the same words and praise.

The Night Sky silouetted by the top of the Sierras

I woke up at 2:30 to seeing the stars dance in the heavens. Then I turned over and saw lights on the move up past us, and on up to the mountains which we will climb today. My mind must have been excited as I could not return back to sleep for more than just a few minutes. 

Morning has broken

Sherri woke up around 3:30. I asked her if she was ready to start walking? No. But neither could she go back to sleep. So we laid there, watching the stars and lights, and thinking about how cold it was outside of our sleeping bags. Finally around 4:30, we got up and got packed. Just a wonderful sunrise, on the faraway peaks-rosy, orange and light. But we will not feel the warmth for several hours as Whitney and its range will be blocking the sun.

Guitar Lake

E'gads! Our propane canister has run out of fuel. Or is it just too cold? Whichever way, I am now glad we asked for Talia's canister back at Le Conte. Her canister fired right up and we had hot oatmeal on this cold morning.

Left our campsite at 6 and started up the long trail to Trail Crest. We will be in shadows all the way to Trail Crest.  Like the Tolkien song says, The Road Goes Ever Onward. But today is our last day on the Trail. Tonight Steven will pick us up, assuming we can make it down to Whitney Portal. Showers and burgers fill my mind as we walk along.

The trail is going up is strong and the oxygen is light.  This has us stopping for breath in the cold air, but the coolness does have the positive effect of having move along. Not really sweating. Before we know it, we have climbed up 500', then a thousand. I start playing a game of saying which pass we have just topped-Glen Pass, then Pinchot, Mather, Muir, and finally, of course, Forester.

Hitchcock Lake

We rise above Hitchcock Lakes, admiring the reflections of the rocks rising from the lakes. The sun is  shining on these slopes, creating a bright spots on our climb. We stop a couple of times to take off our packs. At 9, three things happens: we come out into the light, John B from Fresno appears, and we arrive at Trail Crest. All three are welcome, even though in a little while, the first will be less so. 

Trail up the side of the mountain

At Trail Crest, which is really about 200' below the actual pass, but the JMT does not go through the pass on its way up to Whitney. After unloading some of Sherri's pack and putting the contents into mine, we take off towards Whitney, with Sherri's pack, stocked with food and water. It took us three hours go from Guitar to Trail Crest. It will take close to three hours from Trail Crest to Whitney. 

Almost to the top

The climb up is along a trail which is always rocky, sometimes a bit narrow, and is perched on a steep incline for much of the way. Today was a light traffic day. When Sherri was up here before, the line could have been at Disneyland. You add in that the Badwater to Whitney Portal run ended today, you get a fair amount of trail runners as well. One sort of skidded in front of us, after passing us. He flopped around, trying to right himself, before realizing how close to the edge he was. But for us, we took our time and was cautious.  As we approached the top, the altitude was taking its toll on us. We stopped more and more often to catch our breath. We felt relieved as we turned the corner, and started up the third of a mile incline up to the peak. Many others were stopping and breathing along the way.

Smithsonian Hut

At the top (36.57886, -118.29185), we found the Whitney hut, actually called the Smithsonian Institute Hut. It was constructed to observe a solar eclipse. In the trail registry, we saw that the Ray and Rachel had made it to the top on Monday, July 15th. It was good to see that. But we did not see an entry for Nicole.

The Top

Celebration

Also on top, we see John from Fresno, along with George, Chris and Steve from Minnesota. Sort of like a family reunion. We talk for awhile. After much trying, got to send a text with our picture. Also Spot worked as well. 

That is when things got interesting. Called up Steven. He said that Andrea was coming in from the High Sierra Trail to surprise us. She would be there Thursday night, and climb over Whitney Friday. At least that is what her schedule is. That is a big surprise. What a wonderful daughter to think of us, and want to make our lives a joy. 

This does lead to one complication-what do we do now? Go back to Guitar Lake? Go down to Lone Pine tonight? Stop someplace else? We decide to stop on the trail down. We were not up to doing the climb out of Guitar again.

We called other family members, telling them we made it to the top. Also, that we have now officially completed the JMT, It is fun doing that--also fun just saying that. Got through to all, except Andrea, of course. David does say that not all of our Spot messages got through. The Minnesota group decides to leave the party after awhile. We talk with John for awhile longer, then he heads off as well.

Gary, King of the World

 

We stay on top for a total of an hour and a half, then start coming back down. It is faster-not as much need to catch our breath. But you do feel weaker, so we do not move very fast. Also with the rocky surface we have a tendency to be careful.

Whitney from the east

We rest at Trail Crest before we start our way down in the Lone Pine direction. We will try to make Outpost Camp tonight. Did I say down? The first little bit is another 200' climb, before we start our descent. Then down we go. Down, and down, and still more down. They have re-engineered this from seven years ago. I do not know, but Sherri  remembers a different trail. But the steepness, once again causes us to be cautious, so we go slow, about a mile an hour. Seems strange that we are going at the same speed down something as up it.

Trail Camp is by the pond

Around 6:30 we get into Trail Camp.  (36.56314, -118.27943) Sherri remembers this place as being human turd infested. But it looks like the Forest Service has cleaned it up quite a bit. As tired as we are, we decide not to do another two miles down to Outpost Camp. We find a suitable place. Then on the way to get water, a better place. Dinner is cooked. We see George, Chris and Steve a little ways from us and exchange greetings. Then it is off to bed. We look at pictures and fall asleep, knowing we do not need to get up early  tomorrow.

You may have noticed, that the description from the top does not contain these jaw dropping thoughts and observations. I guess by the time we got there, it just does not match up to the rest of the journey. It is the end, and that makes it special. it is wonderful to see the mountains upon mountains, looking down on everything around us. the cold, blue lakes, the barren landscape. but there is not a specialness to the place for me, like there is around some of the other high places we have been too. Even a lowly pass like Island, I have more desire to be at. I am not saying that I wish I was not here, but that the enjoyment is in the completion of the journey, rather than in the place. Do we think we will go up there again? Probably not.

Today's JMT Lesson: It does not matter how fast you go, as long as you get there.

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Beef Vegetable Wrap Milano Mint Chocolate Cookies	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP, Bank Balls

 ¹The supplied figures above come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk or from topo maps. There was only partial tracks for today in my GPS. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance:  9.41 miles

Elevation Rise:  1,805'

Maximum Elevation: 14,505'

On the trail up

The Windows and Mt Muir from Whitney

Trail down to Trail Camp

Marmot Heaven

June 30, 2013 - Trinity Lakes

Title: June 30, 2013 - Trinity Lakes

Hike Info:

Trail: John Muir Trail - Day Six

Starting location: Island Pass

Destination:  Trinity Lakes

Distance:  11.5   miles  ¹

Start Time:  7:20

End Time:  5:30

Travel Time:  10:10 (1.13 mph)

Moving Time:  5:51 (1.97 mph)

Elevation Rise:  1,772   ¹

Maximum Elevation:  10,180'   ¹

Description:

Island Pass at Dawn

Woke up this morning to clear skies, frogs a croaking,  and a coyote howling. What a wonderful way to start the day! Yes there really was howling this morning. It sounded like it was across the pond on the other side of the trail. No sightings-rats!

Camp Chores

Got up at 5:30 and did camp chores. Saw the sun arising. Pretty nice. After eating, we are leaving around 7:20. The first part is descending from Island Pass. Pretty gentle. We get to see lots of low green area. As we approach Thousand Island Lake, there is more volcanic rock. Also we are glad that we have started early as the sun would be really hot through here.

Thousand Island Lake and Banner Peak

We met a couple, just married from Mendocino ². They look like they are enjoying themselves. We play leap frog through Ruby Lake, when we stop for a quick Clif Bar break.  This got stretched a ways. But we did enjoy the lake-nice reflections. 

Just Married

We climb up around 250', then start a descent into Garnet Lake. Glad it is morning when we are coming through this area. Pretty exposed. But the good part is that you are seeing a whole new  set of mountains, with snow covered ravines. Enjoying it. Banner Peak comes into view. I am enjoying Garnet a lot more than Thousand Island Lake. The south side has mountain hemlock for me to enjoy its shade. The trail gently climbs out of the lake's basin. This is about a 350' climb, but it does not feel too bad. Some trail runners pass us at the top.

Thousand Island Lake

When we get to the top of the saddle, we start a long descend into the Shadow Creek drainage. The upper part of the trail, for the first 300' or so is small volcanic rock. While trail is well made, rocks are sore to the feet. But once out of that area, you find a nice little ravine with a meadow in it to enjoy. Then we head down a never ending slope into Shadow Creek. There we stop for our second lunch. We enjoy a nice long break here before another mile down to Shadow Lake.

Garnet Lake

Where we have our lunch break is a trail crew. I go over and asked if they were part of the effort to clear the trail last year after the wind storm? Yes. Thanked them. A few minutes later an Inyo Forest Service ranger came over and asked if we needed any help. No, but could we get her picture go Capture California? Yes. We talked about possible campsites and bear sightings. So far pretty peaceful around here. Johnston Meadow has lots of bugs. Terri F was very helpful. She did ask to see our permit.

After a good climb

Then, it is up, up and up we go-650' up a side of a mountain. While the Forest Service has done a good job of grading the trail, it still is a major effort on our part. Lots of shade, with a pleasant, occasional breeze does really help, along with CytoMax and jelly bellies. We get to the top and have another break. About that time, the newlyweds come up the trail. They had done some fun stuff, like rock scrambling. 

Rocky Road

Shadow Creek

We go past Rosalie  Lake-only a few mosquitoes here. Then to Gladys Lake. It is 4:30 now. To get to Trinity Lakes is about a half an hour. To go to Minarets Creek, about three hours or more. So we decide to stick with the schedule and camp at Trinity. But I have also been thinking that Trinity even in the best of times is a mosquito haven. So we look for something a little bit dryer and away  from the lakes. Found a spot a little off the trail, but about 200 yards from water. (37.67583,-119.11577)

We have dinner and get cleaned up. Then head to the tent to escape the bugs. Listened to a sermon from Red Rocks Church. Then off to sleep around 9.

Garnet Lake

Today's JMT Lesson: Beauty is there. Find it!

 

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Szechuan Vegetable Noodle	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP

¹The supplied figures come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk. Also some information comes from topo maps as well. From today's tracks on my Foretex, I got only a partial reading. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.
 Distance:  11.4 

Travel Time: ( mph)

Moving Time: 5:51 ( mph)

Elevation Rise:  1,200

Maximum Elevation:  10,180'

²As a further note, our daughter Andrea who works in the Berkley REI store waited on them a few weeks later. They were able to connect the dots and figure out we were related--not the newly married couple, but Andrea, Sherri and I.

June 29, 2013 - Island Pass

Title: June 29, 2013 - Island Pass

Hike Info:

Trail:  John Muir Trail

Starting location: Pond at 10,185'

Destination: Island Pass

Distance:  6.7 miles  ¹
Start Time:  8:00

End Time:  3:45

Travel Time:   7:45 (0.86 mph)

Moving Time:   4:37 (1.45 mph)

Elevation Rise:    1,440' ¹

Maximum Elevation:    11,060' ¹ 

There are a great many pictures today. Many of them can be found at the bottom of this page.

Description:

Lyell Canyon

Got up at 6 and started to get prepared for the day. Washed clothes from yesterday, and  then did the usual. Sherri  got ready and made breakfast. We crossed the creek, wading across and put our stuff together. This was around 8. It was not too bad of a creek crossing. Only came ankle high, water was cold, but not as bad as we thought it might be. The crossing was about a hundred feet toward our pond from the outlet of the pond.

We immediately start climbing the first of our 1450' up towards Donohue Pass. Today I am not following Sherri because with two bear canisters I need to keep my own pace. But we both do pretty well. Actually, better than either of the other times we hiked this. It takes us 40 minutes or so to get to our other crossing of an outlet. Sherri decides to take off her shoes to cross. I think I can cross on the rocks. Well, I did mostly, that is until a rock rolls and my boot splashes into the water, followed by the other boot. Fortunately, it was only about an ankles worth of water before I recovered. Unfortunately, the water slopped over my boot top, getting the socks a little wet.

Sherri wondering wheres the top?

Gary Charging Up Donohue

At this crossing, a woman, Nicole, came up and crossed the same way as I did, but without getting wet. We would hike with her most of the day. We talked for awhile, then she took off. We followed her shortly, and slowly afterwards. The rest of the climb was of the one foot after the other variety. But there were some very awesome views of Lyell Canyon, Glacier and Peak to help moderate the effort.

We Made IT!

We made it to the top of Donohue Pass around 10:30. This is better than expected. Traditional picture taking and all of that. Nicole was up there as well. Pretty nice pass top time. Not as hot as we expected. In the distance we see thunderclouds forming, but does not look like a problem for today.

Coming down the south slope of Donohue, we do this pretty well. Sherri is taking the rocks much more in stride than into past. She is going down faster than I have seen her do before. Around 11:30 we catch up with Nicole and invite her to have lunch with us, which she accepts. She recently got her MBA from USC and will start work right after the JMT.  This is one of her first backpacking experiences, but she seems to have a good head on her shoulders.

Rush Creek

After lunch we hike together, down towards Rush Creek. The creek we are following is unnamed and is pretty gentle until the descent into Rush Creek. We do cross Rush on logs and stop for a small break. We are now in the drainage which goes to the Great Basin. We see many fields of snow gracing the northern flanks of the mountains.

But now we leave Rush Creek and take off on going up towards Island Pass. This is a trudge up it. It is only a 600' climb, but still the sun is on us. So we climb and rest. We meet some PCT'rs coming down. One is from San Jose. Even more so, she was born in Palo Alto at the same hospital I was born at-about 40 years apart.

We make it to Island Pass (37.73581, -119.19275) around 3:45. After talking about options, Sherri and I decide we will stay here rather than going on to Ruby Lake. So we  say goodbye to Nicole who is ready to make some miles today. We then set up camp, battling mosquitoes. After awhile we give up and crawl into the tent and just relax-reading and listening.

Sunset

Sierra Spectacular

Dinner was beef stroganoff. Not as filling as usual. Guess I will live off of my fat. We take a walk around a pond after dinner, waiting for the sun to set. Clouds have filled up the sky. On the plus side, it is making for a gorgeous sunset with the thunderheads rising majestically in the darling sky. On the other side, will it rain? We decide that we will compromise. Cover the packs, but leave the rain tarp off the tent. When we wake up at night, if there are no stars, we will put on the tarp. We watch an episode of Dr Who-Rose, and then go to sleep.

Today's JMT Lesson:  If it looks like you are at the top, you're not.

Breakfast	Lunch	Dinner	Snacks
Oatmeal and add-ins, such as dried peaches, strawberries, nuts, granola. Tang.	Peanut Butter and Nutella on crackers	Beef Stroganoff	Clif Bar, Jelly Bellies, CytoMax, Propel, GORP

¹The supplied figures come from either the book John Muir Trail: The essential guide to hiking America's most famous trail by Elizabeth Wenk. Also some information comes from topo maps as well.The tracks from my Foretex did not get saved. This will become a problem for the rest of the trip. Getting either no or incomplete set of tracks. Below is the readings from today's status on the GPS. I view it as only somewhat accurate.

Distance:  7.3 miles

Moving Time:   4:37 (1.58 mph). 

Elevation Rise:    920'

Maximum Elevation:    11,190' 

Pictures:

 

Outlet from last water before Donohue Pass

 

Closing in on the top of Donohue Pass

Rush Creek Basin

Nicole and Sherri Crossing an Unnamed Creek

Sherri and Nicole Marching Toward Banner Peak

Nice Clouds

Waugh Lake

Donohue Peak with Sherri and Nicole

Mountain Heather

Place: CA-Island Pass

Island Pass 10,205' (Mt Ritter 7.5')
(37.73581, -119.19275)

Description:

One of Gary's favorite camp spots along the JMT. Divide between eastern and western Sierra's

Trips:

• June 29, 2013 - JMT-Slept here. Good place. Beautiful sunrise/sunset. Heard a coyote fowl in the morning.
• July 2012

Pictures:

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References:

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